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Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [43]

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other parts of Iceland. Adventure-tour operators in Reykjavík and Akureyri can organise trips. The northern coastal highlands, such as Ólafsfjörður, provide excellent opportunities. See the destination chapters for details.


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SWIMMING & SPAS

Thanks to Iceland’s abundance of geothermal heat, swimming is a national institution, and nearly every town has at least one sundlaug (heated swimming pool). Most pools also offer hot pots (small outdoor heated pools), saunas and jacuzzis. Admission is usually around Ikr300/150 per adult/child.

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Check out http://hot-springs.org for a map of all the natural springs in the country. It’s in Icelandic; see the boxed text for help with navigating the site.

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Icelandic swimming pools have a strict hygiene regimen, which involves a thorough shower without swimsuit before you enter the swimming area. Watch what Icelanders do and observe signs and instructions. There are also plenty of glorious natural hot springs; see the destination chapters for details. If swimming in natural springs, remove all jewellery before entering the water as the minerals can sometimes discolour the metal.


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WHALE WATCHING

Iceland is one of the best places in the world to see whales and dolphins, and tours on quiet oak-hulled boats minimise disruption so you can get astonishingly close. The most common sightings are of minke whales, but you can also spot humpback, fin, sei and blue whales, among others. The best place in Iceland to see whales is Húsavík. There are also trips departing from Dalvík, Reykjavík and the Vestmannaeyjar. Figure around €50 for a three-hour tour. Sailings run from May to October, with the best chances of success from mid-June to August. To learn more about whales Click here. For more information about Iceland’s whaling industry, Click here.


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WHITE-WATER RAFTING

With glacial rivers flowing off ice caps and thundering towards the coast, white-water rafting (often advertised as river rafting) can be an exhilarating Icelandic experience. Some of the best rafting rivers and most established operators are in north Iceland. Hestasport Activity Tours ( 453 8383; www.rafting.is) in Varmahlíð offers day trips or multiday safaris of the east and west glacial rivers, while Arctic Rafting ( 562 7000; www.adventures.is) has trips on the Hvítá, Þjórsá, Markarfljót and Hólmsá rivers. Mountaineers of Iceland ( 580 9900; www.mountaineers.is) offer rafting trips all year upon request.

Rafting trips include guides, equipment and refreshments, and overnight trips usually include transport, accommodation (tents or huts) and food. Expect to pay Ikr6000 to Ikr10,000 for a day trip.


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Reykjavík

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HISTORY

ORIENTATION

INFORMATION

DANGERS & ANNOYANCES

SIGHTS

ACTIVITIES

REYKJAVÍK FOR CHILDREN

TOURS

FESTIVALS & EVENTS

SLEEPING

EATING

DRINKING

ENTERTAINMENT

SHOPPING

GETTING THERE & AWAY

GETTING AROUND

AROUND REYKJAVÍK

VIÐEY

SELTJARNARNES

KÓPAVOGUR

HAFNARFJÖRÐUR

MOSFELLSBÆR

REYKJANES PENINSULA

KEFLAVÍK & NJARÐVÍK (REYKJANESBÆR)

NORTHWESTERN REYKJANES

SOUTHWESTERN REYKJANES

BLUE LAGOON

GRINDAVÍK

REYKJANESFÓLKVANGUR

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The world’s most northerly capital combines colourful buildings, quirky people, a wild nightlife and a capricious soul to devastating effect. Most visitors fall helplessly in love, returning home already saving to come back.

The city’s charm lies in its many peculiar contrasts, which, like tectonic plates clashing against one another, create an earthquake of energy. Reykjavík offers a bewitching combination of village innocence and big-city zeal. It’s populated by darkly cynical citizens (a quality brought very much to the fore by the country’s recent near-bankruptcy), who are, in spite of everything, filled with unstoppable creativity and enduring spirit. In summer the streets are washed by 22 hours of daylight; in winter they’re scoured by blizzards and doused in never-ending night. Reykjavík is

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