Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [51]
Reykjavík has many small contemporary art galleries. Try the Icelandic Labour Union’s collection, housed in the ASÍ Art Museum (Map; 511 5353; Klapparstígur 33; admission free; 1-5pm Tue-Sun), which often has interesting installations; i8 (Map; 551 3666; www.i8.is; Tryggvagata 16; 11am-5pm Tue-Fri, 1-5pm Sat), which represents some of the country’s favourite modern artists; Lost Horse Gallery (Map; 861 9887; Skólastræti 1; www.this.is/subaqua/newshow; 1-7pm Sat & Sun), with its eclectic mix of photography, paintings and design; young artists’ exhibition space Kling & Bang (Map; 696 2209; http://this.is/klingogbang; Hverfisgata 42; 2-6pm Thu-Sun); and Nýlistasafnið (The Living Museum; Map; 551 4350; www.nylo.is; Laugavegur 26; 10-5pm Mon-Fri, noon-5pm Sat), with its entrance on Grettisgata.
Parks & Gardens
Reykjavík Botanic Gardens (Map; 411 8650; www.grasagardur.is; Skúlatún 2; admission free; greenhouse 10am-10pm Apr-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Mar) contains over 5000 varieties of subarctic plant species, colourful seasonal flowers, a summer cafe serving coffee and waffles, and lots of bird life (particularly grey geese and their fluffy little goslings).
Laugardalur (Map) was once the main source of Reykjavík’s hot-water supply – the name translates as ‘Hot-Springs Valley’. Just north of the botanic garden you’ll find the old wash house (Map) – sadly, rather graffitied – where washerwomen once scrubbed the city’s dirty laundry in sulphurous pools. A small open-air exhibition of old photos brings the past to life.
Reykjavík’s Family Fun Park & Zoo (Click here) is also based in the valley, along with most of the city’s sport and recreational facilities. Buses 14, 15, 17, 19 and S2 pass within a few hundred metres of Laugardalur.
At the heart of the city, grassy Austurvöllur (Map) was once part of first settler Ingólfur Arnarson’s hay fields. Today it’s a favourite spot for lunchtime picnics and summer sunbathing, and is sometimes used for open-air concerts and political demonstrations. The statue in the centre is of Jón Sigurðsson, who led the campaign for Icelandic independence.
The parks around the lake Tjörnin (see the following section) are great for strolling.
Buildings & Monuments
Tjörnin (The Pond; Map) is the placid lake at the centre of the city. It echoes with the honks, squawks and screeches of over 40 species of visiting birds, including swans, geese and artic terns; feeding the ducks is a popular pastime for the under-fives. Pretty sculpture-dotted parks line the southern shores, and their lacing paths are much used by cyclists and joggers. In winter, hardy souls strap on ice skates and turn the lake into an outdoor rink.
Reykjavík’s waterside Ráðhús (City Hall; Map; 563 2005; Vonarstræti; admission free; 8am-7pm Mon-Fri, noon-6pm Sat & Sun) is a postmodern construction that divides all who see it into ‘hate-its’ or ‘love-its’. Concrete stilts, tinted windows and mossy walls make it look like a half-bird, half-building rising from Tjörnin. Inside there’s a fabulous 3D map of Iceland – all mountains and volcanoes, with flecks of nothing-towns disappearing between the peaks. There’s also a pleasant cafe, with free internet access for customers and an intimate view of the ducks.
Compared to the sky-scraping hulk of Hallgrímskirkja, Iceland’s main cathedral, Dómkirkja (Map; 520 9700; www.domkirkjan.is; Lækjargata 14a; admission free; 10am-5pm Mon-Fri) is a modest affair, but it played a vital role in the country’s conversion to Lutheranism. The current building (from 1848) is small but perfectly proportioned; its plain wooden interior is animated by glints of gold.
Iceland’s first parliament, the Alþingi, was created at Þingvellir in AD 930. After losing its independence in the 13th century, the country gradually won back its autonomy, and the modern Alþingi (Map; 563 0500; www.althingi.is; Túngata) moved into the current basalt building in 1881; a stylish glass-and-stone annexe was completed