Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [52]
Popular with skateboarders, the stone square Ingólfstorg is notable for its billowing steam vent, where pent-up geothermal energy finds a release. Some of the city’s oldest houses line the square. Fálkahús (Map; Hafnarstræti 1) has a particularly interesting history – it’s where Icelandic falcons were kept before being shipped off to Europe’s noblemen.
Reykjavík is littered with fascinating statues and abstract monuments, but it’s Jón Gunnar Árnason’s shiplike Sun-Craft (Map) sculpture that seems to catch visitors’ imaginations. Its situation – facing the sea and snow-capped Esja – may have something to do with it.
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ACTIVITIES
Geothermal Pools & Spas
Reykjavík’s pools (and beach) are the heart of the city’s social life: children play, teenagers flirt, business deals are made, and everyone catches up on the latest gossip. Volcanic water keeps the temperature at a mellow 29°C, and most of the baths have heitir pottar (hot pots), Jacuzzi-like pools kept at a toasting 37°C to 42°C. Admission usually costs Ikr360/110 for adults/children aged six to 15 years, and towels and swimsuits can be rented for Ikr350 each. For further information, www.spacity.is.
Reykjavíkurs get very upset by dirty tourists in their nice, clean pools (for good reason – the city’s pools are free of chemicals). To avoid causing huge offence, visitors must wash thoroughly without a swimsuit before hopping in.
The dinky Blue-Flag Nauthólsvík Geothermal Beach (Ýlströndin; Map; 511 6630; 10am-8pm mid-May–mid-Aug), on the edge of the Atlantic, is packed with happy bathers in summer, thanks to golden sand imported all the way from Morocco and an artificial hot spring that keeps the water at a pleasant 18°C to 20°C. There are sociable hot pots on shore and in the sea, a snack bar, changing rooms (Ikr200), and canoes and rowing boats (hire per hr Ikr600; 4-7pm Wed & Thu). Get there on bus 19.
Laugardalslaug (Map; 411 5100; Sundlaugavegur 30a; 6.30am-10.30pm Mon-Fri year-round, plus 8am-10pm Sat & Sun Apr-Oct, 8am-8pm Sat & Sun Nov-Mar) is the largest pool in Iceland, with the best facilities: an Olympic-size indoor pool, an outdoor pool, four hot pots and a whirlpool, a steam bath, and a curling 86m water slide. Take bus 14.
The five-star Laugar spa (Map; 553 0000; www.laugarspa.is; spa admission Ikr4620; spa 6.30am-10.30pm Mon-Fri year-round, plus 8am-10pm Sat & Sun Apr-Oct, 8am-8pm Sat & Sun Nov-Mar; beauty & massage salons 9am-9pm Mon-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat) is attached to Laugardalslaug (above), and offers delicious ways to pamper yourself. There are six themed saunas and steam rooms, a vast and well-equipped gym, and beauty and massage clinics with soothing treatments (detox wraps, facials and hot-stone therapies).
It’s a step out of town, but the slickly designed Árbæjarlaug (off Map; 411 5200; Fylkisvegur, Elliðaárdalur; 6.30am-10.30pm Mon-Fri year-round, plus 8am-10pm Sat & Sun Apr-Sep, 8am-8.30pm Sat & Sun Oct-Mar; ) is well known as the best family pool: it’s half inside and half outside, and there are lots of watery amusements (slides, waterfalls and massage jets) to keep the kids entertained. Take bus 19.
Other central pools include the following two:
Sundhöllin (Map; 551 4059; Barónsstígur 16; 6.30am-9.30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-7pm Sat & Sun) Reykjavík’s oldest swimming pool (with a definite ‘municipal baths’ feel to it) is close to the Hlemmur bus station and is the only indoor pool within the city.
Vesturbæjarlaug (Map; 551 5004; Hofsvallagata; 6.30am-9.30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-7pm Sat & Sun) Also within walking distance of the centre (or take bus 11 or 15), Vesturbæjarlaug has a basic 25m pool and three hot pots.
Whale Watching
Iceland is a fantastic place for whale watching – its waters hold over 20 species of cetacean. In Faxaflói bay you’ll most commonly come across white-beaked dolphins, harbour porpoises and minkes; migratory humpbacks are also spotted from time to time.
Between April and October, Elding Whale Watching