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Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [63]

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pick from fillets, T-bones, rib eyes and entrecôtes, and watch as they’re cooked at the grilling station in the centre of the dining room. There’s a good red-wine list.

Argentína (Map; 551 9555; www.argentina.is; Barónsstígur 11a; mains Ikr3850-5980; 6-10.30pm Sun-Thu, to 11.30pm Fri & Sat) This dark, fiery steakhouse rightly prides itself on its succulent locally raised beef – the best red meat you’ll eat in Reykjavík. It also serves tender char-grilled salmon, reindeer, lamb, pork and chicken, with a wine list to complement whatever choice you make.

ICELANDIC

Many upmarket restaurants (including those in the city’s top hotels) take great national pride in presenting Icelandic ingredients in their finest possible glory. Gourmet menus generally feature bacalao (salt cod), smoked lamb and seafood, and more unusual dishes such as guillemot, puffin and reindeer. Also see Seafood, opposite.

However, not all Icelandic food is found in gourmet settings: there is a growing movement to resurrect traditional ‘Grandma’s Kitchen’ dishes – hearty fish stews and meat soups – now some of the cheapest meals to be found in Iceland.

Segurmo (Map; 845 4549; Laugavegur 28b; mains Ikr1500; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat, dinner only Sun) This new restaurant is run by the people who owned the much-missed bar Sirkus, though it’s a little more grown-up than that wacky club. Even so, the menu’s emphasis on traditional Icelandic food still reveals a few unusual quirks. Minke whale with ratatouille, for example; or salt cod with banana and blue cheese sauce.

Lækjarbrekka (Map; 551 4430; www.laekjarbrekka.is; Bankastræti 2; mains Ikr3220-5580; 11.30am-11pm) This top-notch restaurant has built up its reputation over more than 20 years, cooking traditional Icelandic dishes (game, lobster, juicy pepper steak and mountain lamb) with half an eye on the tourist dollar. From June to August it puts on a high-quality Icelandic buffet (Ikr5600) every evening from 6pm.

Einar Ben (Map; 511 5090; www.einarben.is; Ingólfstorg; mains Ikr3400-4900; 6-10pm Mon-Thu, to 11pm Fri-Sun) One of the city’s finest restaurants, Einar Ben is frequented by diplomats and is renowned for its top-class service and gastronomical marvels. Dishes are Icelandic with a continental twist – think puffin terrine, and lamb Dijon with blueberries and thyme.

Perlan (Map; 562 0200; www.perlan.is; ÖskjuhlíÐ; mains Ikr3900-5700; from 6.30pm) Perched on top of the city’s water tanks is the revolving restaurant Perlan, which spins at one sedate revolution every two hours. The views are superb and, if you can tear your eyes away from the city-and-mountain vista, the grub (reindeer, lamb, flounder, guillemot) isn’t bad either.

Vox (Map; 444 5050; www.voxrestaurant.com; Suðurlandsbraut 2; mains Ikr4100-6900; 6-10pm Tue-Sat) The Hilton’s five-star restaurant serves up superb seasonal dishes – think pink-footed goose with caramelised apples – and there’s usually a vegie option. The waiters sometimes bring out extra little treats for you to try – for example, their amazing ‘invisible gazpacho’! The daytime bistro puts on a recommended Sunday-brunch hot buffet (Ikr2850/1425 for adults/children six to 12 years) – gorge on fruit, bread, prawns (shrimps), bacon, eggs, sausage and pancakes until you burst.

INTERNATIONAL

Tapas Barinn (Map; 551 2344; www.tapas.is; Vesturgata 3b; tapas plates from Ikr690; 5-11.30pm Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat) Indecisive types will have a tough time at this outstanding tapas bar, with over 50 different dishes on the menu – a thousand possible combinations! Alongside familiar Spanish nibbles such as mixed olives and patatas bravas, you’ll find Icelandic ingredients turned into tasty titbits – puffin with blueberries, saltfish, and pan-fried lobster tails. Expect to spend around Ikr3900 per person for a full meal.

Santa Maria (Map; 552 7775; Laugavegur 22a; mains Ikr990; noon-10pm Mon-Sat, 5-10pm Sun) A genuine Mexican restaurant in the heart of town, Santa Maria is run by Ernesto, originally from Mexico City, who brought his mum to Iceland to train his chefs in cooking up

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