Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [64]
Askur Brasserie (Map; 553 9700; www.askur.is; Suðurlandsbraut 4; mains Ikr2200-3800; 11.30am-10pm) Close to the big hotels on Suðurlandsbraut, this relaxed family restaurant is popular with tourists and locals alike. Despite its noncentral location, it’s wise to book on Friday and Saturday. There’s a long menu of burgers, steaks, pasta, lamb, fish and sizzling fajitas, many of which come with soup and a free visit to the salad bar (loosen your belts). The weekday lunchtime buffet is good value at Ikr1790.
Domo (Map; 552 5588; Þinghóltsstræti 5; mains Ikr3700-5300; 6-10pm Tue, Wed & Sun, 6-11pm Thu, 6pm-midnight Fri & Sat) Part of Hótel Þingholt, this fine fusion-food restaurant mixes Far-Eastern flavours with high-quality Icelandic ingredients and French cooking styles. Dishes such as fruit-filled lamb served with artichokes and sweet potatoes are backed up by an extensive wine list. The sushi and sashimi menu is also available to take away.
Fiskfélagið (Fish Company; Map; 552 5300; www.fishcompany.is; Vesturgata 2a; mains Ikr3800-5000; 11.30am-2pm & 6-11.30pm) Built on top of part of the old harbour, this brand-new restaurant is one of the city’s cosiest, with its hotchpotch seating, candles and copper lamps. The menu is a truly ambitious sampling of world cuisines (and in spite of the restaurant’s name, the focus isn’t really on fish): begin with slow-cooked Spanish serrano ham, travel to South America for skate with black-bean purée, and finish with Tahitian banana and coconut cake!
SEAFOOD
Sægreifinn (Map; 553 1500; VerbúÐ 8, small-boat harbour; mains Ikr990-2500; 11am-10pm) Eccentric Sægreifinn serves up fresh seafood in what looks almost like a 1950s English chip shop…except for the stuffed seal. The owner is a sprightly old gent who buys and cooks all the fish himself – lobster soup and fish kebabs are specialities. He only speaks Icelandic, so make sure you know what you’re asking for!
Icelandic Fish & Chips (Map; 511 1118; www.fishandchips.is; Tryggvagata 8; mains around Ikr1700; noon-9pm) A reader-recommended restaurant serving hearty portions of…well, have a guess! It’s good-value fare (for Iceland, at least), and the owners have put their own singular slant on it with a range of ‘Skyronnaises’ – skyr-based sauces (eg rosemary and green apple) that add an unusual zing to this most traditional of dishes.
Lauga-Ás (Map; 553 1620; www.laugaas.is; Laugarásvegur; mains Ikr2300-3800; 11am-9pm Mon-Fri, 5-9pm Sat & Sun) For about 30 years this small, friendly restaurant, close to the City Hostel, has been quietly cooking up some great-tasting grub. It’s particularly well known for its seafood soup and lobster but it also serves deceptively large portions of pasta, steaks and lighter meals. The room itself is a little draughty, but the food is worth wearing a sweater for! Book ahead on Friday and Saturday night.
Við Tjörnina (Map; 551 8666; www.vidtjornina.is; Templarasund 3; Ikr2200-5900; from 6pm) People return again and again to this famed seafood establishment, tucked away near Tjörnin. It serves up beautifully presented Icelandic feasts such as guillemot with port, garlic langoustine, or the house speciality marinated cod chins (far more delicious than they sound!). The restaurant itself is wonderfully distinctive – it feels like a quirky upperclass 1950s drawing room.
Þrír Frakkar (Map; 552 3939; www.3frakkar.com; Baldursgata 14; mains Ikr3000-5300; noon-2.30pm & 6-10pm Mon-Fri, 6-11pm Sat & Sun) Owner-chef Úlfar Eysteinsson has built up an excellent reputation at this snug little restaurant – apparently a favourite of Jamie Oliver’s. Specialities include salt cod, anglerfish and plokkfiskur (fish stew) with black bread. You can also sample nonfish items, such as seal, puffin, reindeer and whale steaks.
Fiskmarkaðurinn (Map; 578 8877; www.fiskmarkadurinn.is; Aðalstræti 12; dishes Ikr3700-5400; 11.30am-2pm & 6-11.30pm Mon-Fri, 6-11.30pm Sat & Sun) Don’t let the weird dead-bony-fish logo put you off – this