Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [65]
Sjávarkjallarinn (Map; 511 1212; www.sjavarkjallarinn.is; Aðalstræti 2; dishes Ikr3800-6200; 6-10.30pm Sun-Thu, 6-11.30pm Fri & Sat) This atmospheric subterranean restaurant was, until recently, the hottest eating place in town; the loss of its award-winning chef means that quality has slipped a little, although it still offers some exotic choices. Shimmering fish and succulent crustaceans are combined with the unexpected – pomegranate, coconut, lychee and chilli – and presented like miniature works of art.
Humarhúsið (Map; www.humarhusid.is; 561 3303; Amtmannsstígur 1; mains Ikr4100-6500) Understated and utterly elegant, the Lobster House is justly celebrated for its succulent shellfish, langoustine and lobster. Although crustaceans feature in most dishes, you can also sample game, fish, lamb and beef, plus there’s a vegetarian option.
VEGETARIAN
Grænn Kostur (Map; 552 2028; www.graennkostur.is; Skólavörðustígur 8; daily special Ikr1390; 11.30am-9pm Mon-Sat, 1-9pm Sun) Tucked away in a small shopping arcade off Skólavörðustígur, this friendly little cafe serves great-tasting vegie set meals, with a daily-changing menu. There are also lighter snacks such as pizza, pies and salads. The high round tables and bar stools aren’t particularly relaxing, but it’s worth sitting up straight for good food.
Á Næstu Grösum (First Vegetarian; Map; www.anaestugrosum.is; 552 8410; Laugavegur 20b; daily special Ikr1490; 11.30am-10pm Mon-Sat, 5-10pm Sun) This first-rate vegie restaurant, in a cheerful orange room overlooking Laugavegur, offers several daily specials. It uses seasonal organic veg, and inventive dressings guaranteed to give even lettuce new appeal. Things get extra spicy on Indian nights (Friday and Saturday), and organic wine and beer are available.
Cafes
Reykjavík’s cool and cosy cafes are one of the city’s best features. Lingering is encouraged – many offer magazines and free wi-fi access. They’re the best places to go for morning coffee and light, tasty lunches. As the evening wears on, most undergo a Jekyll-and-Hyde transformation – coffee becomes beer, DJs materialise in dark corners, and suddenly you’re not in a cafe but a kick-ass bar! Magic. Because the dividing line is so blurred, also see Drinking, Click here.
Babalú (Map; 552 2278; Skólavörðustígur 22a) More inviting than your own living room, this first-floor cafe is ubercute. It only sells tea, coffee, hot chocolate and the odd crêpe, but once you’ve settled into one of its snug corners you won’t want to move. A teeny wooden balcony gives you a great vantage point over Skólavörðustígur, and in summer there’s occasional live music.
Kaffi Mokka (Map; 552 1174; Skólavörðustígur 3a; 9am-6.30pm) Reykjavík’s oldest coffee shop is an acquired taste. Its decor has changed little since the 1950s, and its original mosaic pillars and copper lights either look retro-cool or dead tatty, depending on your mood! It has a mixed clientele – from older folk to tourists to trendy young artists – and a selection of sandwiches, cakes and giant waffles.
Kofi Tómasar Frænda (Koffin; Map; 551 1855; Laugavegur 2; snacks around Ikr600; 10am-1am Mon-Thu, to 5.30am Fri & Sat, 11am-1am Sun; ) Subterranean Koffin has a studenty feel. Relax with magazines and a snack (nachos, lasagne, sandwiches, cakes or chocolate-coated marzipan) and watch disconnected feet scurry along Laugavegur. At night the place turns into a candle-lit bar with DJs.
Café Paris (Map; 551 1020; Austurstræti 14; snacks Ikr700-1500; 9am-1am Sun-Thu, to 5am Fri & Sat) An old favourite, Paris is one of the city’s prime people-watching spots, particularly in summer when outdoor seating spills out onto Austurvöllur square; and at night,