Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [81]
Activities
Keflavík and Njarðvík both have pools, but the 25m outdoor swimming pool ( 421 1500; Sunnubraut; adult/child Ikr250/free; 6.45am-9pm Mon-Fri, 8am-5pm Sat, 9am-4pm Sun) in Keflavík is the better one.
Sleeping
All the sleeping options listed provide a free airport transfer.
KEFLAVÍK
Motel Alex ( 421 2800; www.alex.is; Aðalgata 60; sites per person Ikr800, sb dm/tw/hut Ikr2200/12,000/15,900; ) A mere two-minute drive from the airport, Alex offers a range of basic accommodation. There’s a small campsite for campers; a 14-person dormitory for hostellers; simple bedrooms for guest housers; and small wooden chalets for Swiss yodellers (open in summer only). Extras include a guest lounge and kitchen, free luggage storage, and bike and car rental. It’s 1.5km from the town centre. The motel is closed from December to mid-April.
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GOODBYE TO THE MILITARY BASE
Keflavík owed a great deal of its former prosperity to the former American military base, which closed down in September 2006.
In 1951 a fear of Reds under the bed led the US to establish a military presence in Iceland, which was a handy submarine fuelling stop between America and Russia. Over the years various passionate protests were made demanding that the troops leave, but all came to nothing. It was only as submarines became more advanced and the Cold War ended that US operations in Iceland were scaled back.
America eventually made tentative noises about a complete closure. Contrarily, this time many Icelanders demanded that the soldiers stay – the jobs that the base provided and the money it brought into the economy were too valuable to lose; and how could Iceland defend itself without an army of its own?
But the units drifted home and the base powered down, until on 30 September 2006 a simple ceremony took place – the US flag was lowered, and the Icelandic flag was raised in its place, ending 55 years of occupation.
Keflavík is sorely missing its soldiers: the town now has the highest unemployment rate in Iceland. There are no cohesive plans for the enormous military zone on Reykjanes. The Lego-like barracks are being used as accommodation for Reykjavík University students, but the shooting ranges, warehouses and miles of razor wire all lie abandoned. It’s estimated that it will cost the Icelandic government Ikr4 billion to clean up toxic areas and demolish unwanted buildings…but after the recent economic crisis, it’s unlikely to be a priority for some time.
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B&B Guesthouse ( 421 8989, 867 4434; Hringbraut 92; s/d/tr Ikr6500/8700/10,200; ) This green-and-yellow guest house above a fresh-fish shop is neat as a pin inside. Rooms are all parqueted and non-idiosyncratic, but there are some quirky touches in the common areas – like the peacock tapestry over the stairs and the cosy curvy settee in the TV room. Prices include free internet and breakfast, and there’s a guest kitchen.
Gistiheimilið Keflavík ( 420 7000; www.hotelkeflavik.is; Vatnsnesvegur 9; s/d Ikr10,800/12,800) Run by Hótel Keflavík, this is a pricey option with slightly old-fashioned rooms (all with shared bathroom and TV), but you do have use of the hotel’s four-star facilities. There’s also a guest kitchen, and a continental breakfast is included in the price.
Flughótel ( 421 5222; www.icehotel.is; Hafnargata 57; r Ikr17,600-20,800; ) The green-and-cream rooms at this typical Icelandair property are clean and modern. Standard rooms are just as comfortable as the deluxe, so don’t pay extra unless you really want a kettle and a bathrobe. There’s a hot pot, sauna, restaurant and free internet access. Breakfast costs Ikr1200.
Hótel Keflavík ( 420 7000; www.hotelkeflavik.is; Vatnsnesvegur 12-14; s/d Ikr22,800/27,800; ) Almost next door to Flughótel is the friendly family-run Hótel Keflavík, with its smell of clean