Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [82]
NJARÐVÍK
FIT Hostel ( 421 8889; www.fithostel.is; Fitjabraut 6a; sb/s/d Ikr2200/3800/5200; ) In an industrial estate off busy Rte 41, this hostel has an unfortunate location but decent facilities – good, clean rooms (holding up to seven people), left luggage (Ikr250), internet access (Ikr600 per hour) and free wi-fi, laundry (Ikr600) and a hot tub. You can catch buses to Reykjavík and Keflavík in front of the hostel, but a car or a love of walking through concrete suburbs would be helpful here. Breakfast (Ikr1000) is available mid-May to August.
Eating
KEFLAVÍK
There are enough drive-through snack bars and greasy grills in Keflavík to give you an instant burger-induced coronary. For more civilised fare, there are several places along the main street; plus the two hotels have high-quality restaurants.
Olsen Olsen ( 421 4457; Hafnargata 17; snacks Ikr700-1000; 11am-10pm) In the 1950s, thanks to rock and roll, Keflavík was the coolest place in Iceland. This American-style diner transports locals back to the glory days, with shiny silver tables, red plastic seats and pictures of Elvis on the walls. There’s a gigantic range of hoagies, as well as sandwiches, burgers and a kids’ meal.
Café Keflavík ( 421 4919; Hafnargata 26; noon-10pm Mon-Thu, noon-midnight Fri & Sat) Above a tattoo shop on the main street, this chilled-out cafe-bar has a long coffee menu, including quirky alcoholic drinks such as ‘Lilly Loves Cinnamon’ and ‘Nutty Icelander’. Vegans and those with dairy allergies have a choice of soya-based beverages, and there are bagels and cakes to nibble.
Kaffi Duus ( 421 7080; Duusgata 10; mains Ikr2900-3700; kitchen noon-10pm, bar to 1am Fri & 2am Sat) This friendly nautical-themed cafe-restaurant-bar, decorated with whale vertebrae and giant crabs, overlooks the small-boat harbour and cliffs. It serves generous platefuls of fish, fish, fish, fresh out of the sea, with a few pasta dishes, salads and burgers thrown in. It’s a popular evening hangout with occasional live bands.
Ráin ( 421 4601; www.rain.is; Hafnargata 19a; mains Ikr2950-4100; kitchen 11am-3pm & 6-10pm, bar to 1am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat) If you visit on a day like we did, Ráin’s renowned panoramic views of sea, mountains and distant Reykjavík will be nothing but mist! Keflavík’s finest restaurant is large but friendly and serves a familiar menu of Icelandic fish, lobster, lamb and beef.
Self-caterers have plenty of supermarkets to choose from, including the 24-hour 10-11 (Hafnargata 53-55) and a Kaskó close to Motel Alex. There’s also a Vín Búð ( 421 5699; Krossmói; 11am-6pm Mon-Thu, to 7pm Fri, to 4pm Sat) on the same out-of-town lot as the tourist office.
NJARÐVÍK
Unless you love drive-throughs and supermarkets, you’re going to go hungry in Njarðvík. Choose from the car-friendly Emmessís, KFC or Fitjagrill; or the Bónus supermarket (Fitjum; noon-6.30pm Mon-Thu, 10am-7.30pm Fri, 10am-6pm Sat, noon-6pm Sun) or Kaffitár ( 420 2710; www.kaffitar.is; Stapabraut 7; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 11am-4pm Sat) off Rte 41.
Getting There & Around
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
Most of Reykjanesbær’s accommodation options offer free airport transfers for guests. A taxi will cost about Ikr2500 – call Airport Taxi ( 420 1212; www.airporttaxi.is) or Hreyfill-Bæjarleiðir ( 588 5522; www.hreyfill.is). For information on the Flybus between the airport and Reykjavík, Click here.
AIR
Apart from flights to Greenland and the Faeroes, all of Iceland’s international flights use Keflavík International Airport. For more information, Click here.
BUS
SBK ( 420 6000; www.sbk.is) runs seven daily buses between Reykjanesbær and the BSÍ bus station in Reykjavík from Monday to Friday, and three on Saturday and Sunday. The fare is Ikr1600/800/1150