Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [86]
Besides the usual petrol-station grills and snack bars, Grindavík has several good eating options.
Lukku Láki ( 426 9999; Hafnargata 6; dishes Ikr900-2500; 6-9pm Tue-Thu & Sun, to 3am Fri & Sat) The Lucky Luke sports bar-bistro is a crazy mixed-up place – African masks, big-screen football, a bar made from old five-aurar pieces, fairy lights and blues on the stereo all compete for your attention. But the confusion somehow makes for a great atmosphere. Add free internet access, beer and huge portions of well-priced bar meals (salmon, burgers, chips, chicken nuggets) and you’re on to a winner.
Veitingahúsið Brim ( 426 8570; www.brimveitingar.is; Hafnargata 9; mains Ikr1800-3400; lunch & dinner summer, lunch only winter) This fish restaurant, just opposite the museum, offers a taste of saltfish – with spinach and tomatoes in white-wine sauce – so you can see what the fuss is about. You can also sample lamb, beef and chicken mains, or go for a lighter burger (including one for vegetarians), soup or sandwich snack.
Salthúsið ( 426 9700; www.salthusid.is; Stamphólsvegur 2; dishes Ikr2300-4500; 5-10pm Mon & Wed-Fri, 12.30pm-midnight Sat, 12.30-10pm Sun) The classy wooden Salthúsið is the first dedicated saltfish restaurant in Iceland. The baccalao is prepared in different ways (with ginger, chilli, olives and garlic; au gratin; as nibbly nuggets; or with mushrooms, red onion and capers), so there’s plenty of variety. If the idea of saltfish doesn’t grab you, fall back on perfectly prepared lobster, chicken or lamb.
Getting There & Away
Three scheduled daily buses travel between Reykjavík and Grindavík (Ikr1400, one hour), past the Blue Lagoon.
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REYKJANESFÓLKVANGUR
For a taste of Iceland’s weird and empty countryside, you could visit this 300-sq-km wilderness reserve, a mere 40km from Reykjavík. Its three showpieces are Kleifarvatn, a deep grey lake with submerged hot springs and black-sand beaches; the spitting, bubbling geothermal zone at Seltún; and the southwest’s largest bird cliffs, the epic Krýsuvíkurberg.
The reserve was established in 1975 to protect the elaborate lava formations created by the Reykjanes ridge volcanoes. The whole area is crossed by dozens of walking trails, which mostly follow old paths between abandoned farms. They’re detailed in the good pamphlet map Walking & Hiking in Krýsuvík (in English), available from the tourist offices at Keflavík or Hafnarfjörður. There are parking places at the beginnings of most of the popular walks, including the loop around Kleifarvatn, and the tracks along the craggy Sveifluháls and Núpshliðarháls ridges.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
There’s no public transport to the park, but you could get here on an organised bus trip. Reykjavík Excursions and other tour agents offer six-hour tours through the Reykjanes Peninsula (Click here).
Otherwise, you’ll need a bike or hire car. Follow unsurfaced Rte 42 from Hafnarfjörður, which continues eastwards through lava fields to Þorlákshöfn, passing more dramatic volcanic scenery. Rte 427 from Grindavík will also get you to the reserve.
Kleifarvatn
This deep and creepy lake sits in a volcanic fissure, surrounded by wind-warped lava cliffs and black-sand shores. Legend has it that a worm-like monster the size of a whale lurks below the surface – but the poor creature is running out of room, as the lake has been shrinking ever since two major earthquakes shook the area in 2000. For a macabre fictional slant on this event, seek out Arnaldur Indríðason’s thriller The Draining Lake (2007). A walking trail runs right around the water’s edge, offering dramatic views and the crunch of volcanic cinders underfoot.
Krýsuvík & Seltún
The volatile geothermal field Austurengjar, about 2km south of Kleifarvatn,