Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [87]
At Seltún, boardwalks meander round a cluster of hot springs. The steaming vents, mud pots and solfataras (volcanic vents) shimmer with rainbow colours from the strange minerals in the earth, and the provocative eggy stench will make a lasting impression.
Nearby is the lake Grænavatn, an old explosion crater filled with weirdly green water – caused by a combination of minerals and warmth-loving algae.
Krýsuvíkurberg
South of Seltún, about half a kilometre past Krýsuvík church, a dirt track leads down to the coast at Krýsuvíkurberg. These bleak black cliffs stretch for 4km and are packed with puffins, guillemots and other sea birds in summer. A walking path runs along their length.
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Southwest Iceland
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THE GOLDEN CIRCLE
ÞINGVELLIR
AROUND ÞINGVELLIR
GEYSIR
GULLFOSS
GULLFOSS TO SELFOSS
FLÚÐIR
ÞJÓRSÁRDALUR
THE SOUTHWEST COAST
HVERAGERÐI
AROUND HVERAGERÐI
SELFOSS
EYRARBAKKI
FLÓI NATURE RESERVE
STOKKSEYRI
HELLA
HEKLA
HVOLSVÖLLUR
AROUND HVOLSVÖLLUR
ÞÓRSMÖRK
SKÓGAR & AROUND
SKÓGAR TO VÍK Í MÝRDAL
VÍK Í MÝRDAL
EAST OF VÍK
VESTMANNAEYJAR
HEIMAEY
SURTSEY
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Geysers spout, waterfalls topple, black beaches stretch into the distance, and brooding volcanoes and glittering ice caps line the horizon. The beautiful southwest contains many of Iceland’s most famous natural wonders – and is consequently a relatively crowded corner of the country. But get off the Ring Road (Rte 1) and there are plenty of quiet valleys and splashing streams you can have all to yourself.
Almost everyone who comes to Iceland visits the Golden Circle, east of Reykjavík. Here you’ll find the gorgeous national park Þingvellir, a Unesco World Heritage Site; the bubbling springs and spouting geysers at Geysir; and one of the country’s most dazzling rainbow-tinged waterfalls, Gullfoss.
On the coast, you can visit the entertaining little fishing villages Eyrarbakki and Stokkseyri, or walk the black beaches at drop-dead beautiful Vík. Just offshore, the charming Vestmannaeyjar are filled with fearless puffins and friendly people. Inland you’ll find one of Iceland’s best museums at Skógar; important saga-age ruins in the Þjórsárdalur valley; or wonderful walking at Þórsmörk. And, if you want more of an adrenalin rush, try snowmobiling or dog sledding on the Mýrdalsjökull ice cap.
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HIGHLIGHTS
Wait for water to shoot skywards at Geysir, or watch it tumbling down at Gullfoss
Go dog sledding or snowmobiling on Mýrdalsjökull ice cap
Scream at the Stokkseyri Ghost Centre, or enjoy a dose of culture at the brilliant Skógar Folk Museum
Fall in love with puffins, volcanoes and teetering cliffs on the wonderful Vestmannaeyjar
Stroll black-sand beaches at Vík and Reynisfjara, and watch otherworldly ocean sunsets from nearby Dyrhólaey
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Getting There & Around
For information on bus routes and schedules in the southwest, see the Getting There & Away sections for individual destinations or contact the BSÍ bus station ( 562 1011; www.bsi.is), or bus companies Reykjavík Excursions ( 580 5400; www.re.is) or Trex ( 551 1166; www.bogf.is).
Frequent organised tours visit this area (Click here for ideas). Hiring a car can work out cheaper; most southwestern roads are suitable for 2WDs.
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THE GOLDEN CIRCLE
Gullfoss, Geysir and Þingvellir are unique sites commonly referred to as the Golden Circle. These sites make up Iceland’s major tourist destinations, offering visitors the opportunity to see a wild, roaring waterfall, spouting hot springs and the country’s most important historical area in one condensed, doable-in-a-day tour. Although they’re mobbed by coach