Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [97]
Information
Hveragerði contains the regional tourist office for the whole south coast, UpplýsingamiðstöÐ Suðurlands ( 483 4601; www.southiceland.is; Sunnumörk 2-4; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat mid-May–mid-Sep, 9am-4.30pm Mon-Fri mid-Sep–mid-May), which shares its premises with the post office, inside the shopping centre. It can book accommodation for a Ikr300 fee. When the office is closed, one of the new ‘Look & Book Iceland’ information terminals is located just outside the door.
A tiny room with three internet computers (Ikr150 per half-hour) can be accessed from both the tourist office and the friendly library ( 483 4531; Sunnumörk 2; 1-7pm Mon & Wed-Fri, to 9pm Tue, 11am-2pm Sat). While you’re here (yes, inside the building!), look down by your feet for the rift, discovered during the construction of the shopping centre.
There’s a Kaupþing bank on Breiðamörk and an ATM in the shopping-centre entrance.
Sights
GEOTHERMAL FIELDS
There’s a small geothermal area ( 483 4601; Hveramörk; admission free; 10.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, noon-4pm Sat & Sun Jun–mid-Sep) in the centre of town, with baked earth, small mudpots and several hot springs and pools. They’re a little tame, but the information sheet contains some great stories – read all about the hot-spring spider Pirata piraticus, the burping Garbage Spring, and the murderous mudpot. In summer there’s a small cafe where you can buy eggs (Ikr50) and bread (Ikr150) boiled and baked in the area. Out of season, ask the tourist office to unlock the gates.
For something a little more explosive, head up Breiðamörk and on out of town. This valley is Ölfusdalur, site of several mudpots, steaming vents and the geyser Grýla (on the left), which erupts 12m several times daily. There’s also an artificial borehole, Leppalúði, on the right by the bridge near the golf-course road, which guhes continually. If you keep going a further 1.5km, you’ll reach a car park; from here, it’s a 3km walk to unmissable Reykjadalur, a delightful geothermal valley where there’s a bathable hot river – bring your swimsuit.
GALLERIES & MUSEUMS
We highly recommend the large, airy modern art gallery Listasafn Árnesinga ( 483 1727; www.listasafnarnesinga.is; Austurmörk 21; admission free; noon-6pm daily May–mid-Sep, noon-6pm Thu-Sun mid-Sep–mid-Dec & mid-Jan–Apr), which puts on great temporary exhibitions. It’s worthy of a town four times the size of Hveragerði, and has a fine cafe too.
IÐAVELLIR
Iðavellir (Norse Mythology Centre; 483 0000; www.idavellir.is; Austurmörk 25; 9am-9pm Jun-Aug, 9am-7pm Sep-May) is one of the nearest things Iceland has to a tourist trap, with a large shop selling postcards and woollen goods, and a canteen. The new Well of the Norns exhibition (Ikr1200) is a mazelike area stuffed full of cartoony cut-outs of the Norse gods. A headphone commentary (in English, German and Icelandic) guides you round, telling you the most exciting of the Norse myths. We loved the artwork, enjoyed the concept, quivered at the price, disliked the heat (the exhibition is built inside a former greenhouse).
GREENHOUSES
The greenhouses around town are great at night, when they glow radioactive orange, and several nurseries are open to the public. It’s also fine to amble into the Landbúnaðarháskóli Íslands Reykjum (Agricultural University of Iceland; 433 5000; www.lbhi.is; Reykir; 9am-5pm, closed Jul) to look at the plants.
HNLFÍ CLINIC
Iceland’s most famous clinic, Heilsustofnun Náttúrulækningafélags Íslands (HNLFÍ; 483 0300; www.hnlfi.is; Grænumörk 10; adult/concession/under 12yr Ikr600/300/300; 8am-4pm Mon-Fri), has mainly treated prescription-only patients in the past. However, it’s now keen to throw open its doors to visitors seeking relaxing massages (Ikr5300 to Ikr8600) and deep-heat mud baths (Ikr4700). HNLFÍ has excellent facilities, including indoor and outdoor pools, hot pots, a sauna, a steam bath and a relaxation room. Treatments are available year-round – book ahead.
Activities
HIKING
There are loads of interesting walks around Hveragerði. Bring the Ferðakort topographical map