Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [98]
Most trails begin from the small car park in Ölfusdalur (follow Breiðamörk out of town, and don’t turn right into Gufudalur and the golf course). From here it’s a 3.5km walk up through beautiful Reykjadalur (see left) to the Dalsel survival hut.
From Dalsel, several trails cut across the hills to the shores of the great lake Þingvallavatn. The shortest routes run northeast to Úlfljótsvatn (13km) or due north to Ölfusvatn (13.5km). A longer route will take you over the summit of Hengill (768m; 11.7km from Dalsel) to Nesjavellir, 18.7km from Dalsel.
If you just want to climb Hengill, you can drive as far as the Hengill ski area (off Rte 1, 16km west of Hveragerði), from where it’s 7km to the summit along the ridge to the west, or 6km via the Hengladalir valley. All routes to the top of Hengill are black walking trails – officially ‘tough, and should not be walked alone’.
SWIMMING
Hveragerði’s open-air geothermal swimming pool ( 483 4113; Laugaskarði; adult/child Ikr310/120; 6.45am-9.15pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6.30pm Sat & Sun Jun-Aug, 6.45am-9.15pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5.30pm Sat & Sun Sep-May), beside the Varmá river just north of town, is among Iceland’s favourites. Goodies include a massaging hot pot and a steam room built directly over a natural hot spring.
HORSE RIDING
A few kilometres east of Hveragerði, the horse farm Eldhestar ( 480 4800; www.eldhestar.is; Vellir) has all kinds of riding tours, from one-hour trots (around Ikr5000) in the surrounding area to multiday tours into the highlands (contact Eldhestar for prices).
Sleeping
Campsite ( 483 4601, 483 4605; Reykjamörk 1; sites per person Ikr850) This excellent modern campsite is just east of the centre, and has toilets, showers, a cooking area and a laundry.
Gistiheimilið Frumskógar ( 896 2780; www.frumskogar.is; Frumskógar 3; s/d/apt Ikr5000/7000/12,000; ) Clean, good-value rooms are offered at this cosy suburban guest house. They all come with comfy beds, thick duvets, TVs, washbasins and dressing gowns. A yummy breakfast (Ikr1000) can be ordered, and there’s a hot pot in the garden. Self-catering apartments at the back have TV, bathroom and kitchen.
Gistiheimilið Frost og Funi (Frost & Fire Guest House; 483 4959, 893 4959; www.frostandfire.is; Hverhamar; s/d Ikr12,000/16,900; ) This is a romantic option, with access to a private pool, an idyllic riverbank hot pot and a natural steam sauna. The 14 rooms are simple but tasteful, with large beds, TVs, en-suite bathrooms and modern Icelandic artwork on the walls. Breakfast is included.
Hótel Örk ( 483 4700; www.hotel-ork.is; Breiðamörk 1; s/tw/tr Ikr15,500/18,900/21,100; ) Although the rooms in this big custom-built building are staid and slightly old-fashioned, unusually for Iceland they all have bathtubs. The hotel itself has excellent facilities, particularly for families – saunas, tennis courts, a nine-hole golf course, a ping-pong table and an excellent swimming pool with slide, hot tubs and a children’s pool. Breakfast is included.
Eating
Hverabakarí ( 483 4879; Breiðamörk 10; 8.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat & Sun) An unusual cake maker works at this little bakery – look out for the marzipan chessboard and buns pulling horrible faces. There are plenty of tables, and good coffee and snacks, including hot-spring bread baked using geothermals. There’s another bakery in the town’s shopping centre, but it’s not as much fun.
Kjöt og Kúnst ( 483 5010; Breiðamörk 21; 11.30am-9pm Mon-Sat Jun-Aug, shorter hrs rest of year) This deli serves delicious nibbly things for picnics – mouth-watering salads, cakes, roast chicken, slices of meat and fish. You can also eat in (lunch available until 1.30pm, evening meals from 5pm) – choose from various different hotplate courses, then take your plate to be weighed. Dishes are cooked using steam from nearby hot springs.
Café Kidda Rót ( 552 8002; Sunnumörk 2; mains Ikr1100-3000; 11am-10pm Sun-Thu, to 11.30pm