Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [99]
Hótel Örk ( 483 4700; Breiðamörk 1; mains Ikr3000-4000) The restaurant at Hótel Örk is the poshest place in town, and it serves a small menu of Icelandic specialities such as hangikjöt (smoked lamb) and bacalao (salt cod), plus burgers, beef steaks and seafood kebabs.
There’s a Bónus ( 482 1818; Sunnumörk 2; noon-6.30pm Mon-Thu, 10am-7.30pm Fri, 10am-6pm Sat, noon-6pm Sun) supermarket, and the Vín Búð ( 481 3932; Breiðamörk 1; noon-6pm Mon-Thu, 11am-7pm Fri, 11am-4pm Sat) is inside the N1 garage.
Getting There & Away
The bus stop is at the N1 petrol station on the main road into town. All buses from Reykjavík to Selfoss and places further east stop in Hveragerði (Ikr840, 35 minutes).
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AROUND HVERAGERÐI
Route 38 runs south from Hveragerði to Þorlákshöfn (20km), from where the ferry to the Vestmannaeyjar departs (see the boxed text, for alterations to the route).
Raufarhólshellir
This 11th-century lava tube is over 1km long, and contains some wonderful (protected) lava columns. You’ll need a torch and sturdy boots to explore; the going underfoot can be quite treacherous from earlier cave-ins. In winter, cold air is funnelled down and trapped inside, producing amazing ice formations. You’ll find the tube southwest of Hveragerði off the Reykjavík–Þorlákshöfn route (Rte 39), which passes right over the tunnel. It’s about 1km north of the junction where Rtes 38, 39 and 427 meet.
Þorlákshöfn
pop 1580
In the past, most people came to this fishing town, 20km south of Hveragerði, to catch the ferry to the Vestmannaeyjar; however, the ferry route is due to change in 2010 – see the boxed text. There’s a campsite ( 483 3807, 863 9690; olfus@olfus.is; sites per person Ikr750; mid-May–Aug) next to the swimming pool if you need to stay over.
The bus service from Reykjavík to Þorlákshöfn currently connects with the ferry – Click here. A new bus service will operate from Reykjavík to Bakki once the new harbour there is built – ask at the BSÍ bus station in Reykjavík for timetables.
Just outside Þorlákshöfn, Rte 38 runs to Hveragerði, Rte 39 runs to Reykjavík, and unsurfaced Rte 427 runs west along the bottom of the Reykjanes Peninsula to Krýsuvík.
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SELFOSS
pop 6570
Selfoss is the largest town in southern Iceland, an important trade and industry centre, and witlessly ugly. Iceland’s Ring Road is its main shopping street – as a pedestrian, you’re in constant danger of ending up as road jam.
The main reason to come here is to buy groceries before heading into the highlands; to establish a base to explore the Flói Nature Reserve or the lovely fishing villages of Eyrarbakki (opposite) and Stokkseyri; or if you’re desperate to go to the cinema. The nicest part is the winding river Ölfusá.
Information
The tourist information desk ( 480 1990; http://tourinfo.arborg.is; Austurvegur 2; 10am-7pm Mon-Fri, 11am-2pm Sat mid-May–Aug), inside the town library and close to the roundabout on the main road, is staffed in summer; at other times, leaflets are available. The library offers internet access for Ikr300 per hour.
Landsbanki Íslands, Kaupþing and Íslandsbanki all have branches with ATMs on Austurvegur.
Activities
Selfoss has a fine geothermal swimming pool ( 480 1960; Bankavegur; adult/under 18yr Ikr370/free; 6.45am-9.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-8pm Sat & Sun), with hot pots, water slides and a kids’ play pool.
Sleeping
Gesthús ( 482 3585; www.gesthus.is; Engjavegur 56; sites per person Ikr800, sb/s/d/tr Ikr3000/9000/11,500/13,500; sites mid-May–mid-Sep, cabins year-round; ) For a choice of accommodation – sleeping-bag/camping/made-up beds in wooden cabins – try this friendly place by the park. There’s a sociable kitchen hut and a laundry for campers, and the two- to four-bed cabins are nicely equipped