India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [10]
• Devi Garh (near Udaipur, Rajasthan): If you’re a modern-design enthusiast, this hotel will blow you away. The formidable exterior of this 18th-century Rajput palace-fort, towering over the tiny village at its base, remains unchanged. But step inside and you’ll find a totally reinvented minimalist interior, with 14 floors transformed into 49 chic suites that have clearly utilized the talents of the best young Indian designers—all of whom laid to rest the perception that design here reached its apotheosis with the Mughals. It’s an unparalleled modern Indian masterpiece, and a destination in its own right.
• Umaid Bhawan Palace (Jodhpur, Rajasthan): Splurge on one of the sumptuous Deco heritage suites in this glorious, monumental palace (still partially inhabited by Jodhpur’s royal family), with the city and its populace somewhere far below. It stands on the summit of a hill, with the staggering Mehrangarh Fort across the way. Guests here are treated like royalty, with access to a private cinema, fabulous lounges, a squadron of butlers, and two pools—one an indoor Deco masterpiece and another at the edge of the beautiful, lush gardens where Liz Hurley married her Indian beau.
• Amanbagh (Ajabgarh, Rajasthan): Fringed by date palms and mango and jamun trees, Aman’s shimmering pink-sandstone resort is the oasis you have always wanted to stumble upon while traversing the Thar Desert. Begin your day sipping ruby-red pomegranate juice on your private porch, then hike to ancient Somsagar Lake or explore the haunted ruins at Bhangarh. Or go nowhere but your private villa pool on the edge of the palm-lined canal and listen to the joyful twittering of birds.
• Hotel Eagle’s Nest (Dharamkot, Dharamsala, Himachal Pradesh): High above the bustling cosmopolitan town of McLeod Ganj, this guesthouse offers one of the most charming stays in all of India. Set in a marvelously restored old mission station surrounded by a forest, each of the spacious guestrooms is imaginatively turned out, and the best afford jaw-dropping views of the Dhauladar mountain range. You’ll be happy to just loll about all day taking in the fresh, clean air and staring across at splendid vistas. But your hosts—self-proclaimed refugees from London’s fast-paced music industry—will be on hand to pamper you, whether it’s with their excellent advice for exploring the region or putting together a special meal in the homey kitchen. And when you absolutely must purge your sins, the Dalai Lama’s temple is a therapeutic half-hour downhill walk away.
• Gangeshwari Suite at the Glasshouse on the Ganges (Garhwal, Uttarakhand): It’s the location—just steps away from the raging Ganges River—more than anything that gives this room its special appeal. The simply laid-out sleeping area has a four-poster canopy bed and antique furniture, while the bathroom features a tub carved into the rock, with greenery spilling down the walls. You can relax on your private balcony and watch India’s holiest river gushing by, or dive in for a refreshing dip knowing that you’re far away from the pollution that enters the river much farther downstream.
• Shakti Homestays (Ladakh): In the time-forgotten villages of Ladakh’s mesmeric moonscape, you will discover a way of life that’s little changed over the centuries. Thanks to an innovative upgrade on the average homestay experience, you can now enjoy the comfort of luxurious linens and fire-fueled heating throughout the night as you bed down in a converted space above a traditional family home. By day you’ll explore the region with a knowledgeable guide and driver who will take you to spectacular Buddhist temples, journeying through lunar landscapes and snow-tipped mountains that will leave you awestruck. At night you’ll dine with the families whose homes you’ll share, getting to understand a distinctive culture that’s a far cry from the increasingly touristy experience of the crowds who flock to