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India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [9]

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the expert hands-on guidance of director Sunil Varghese, service and cuisine are now superb and Dune has developed into a destination in its own right, yet a hop from the gorgeous seaside town of Pondi, our favorite shopping destination in the south. See chapter 8.

• Mahua Kothi, Banjaar Tola, and Pashan Garh (Bandhavgarh, Kanha, and Panna, Madhya Pradesh): Ultra-luxurious safari lodges from India’s Taj hotel group and South Africa’s &Beyond, each one is not only eye-catchingly pretty and filled with whimsically stylish details, but the sumptuous guest villas or tents are an idyllic retreat after a day of tiger-spotting with the best-trained naturalists in the country.

• Amarvilās (Agra, Uttar Pradesh): If you’ve always dreamed of seeing the Taj Mahal, this is the place to celebrate that achievement. Built within the green belt that surrounds the monument, you can literally see the Taj from your bed, but you’ll probably spend just as much time gazing at your immediate surroundings. With its huge reflecting pools, colonnaded courts, terraced lawns, inlaid murals, and pillowed pavilions, this palatial hotel is worth every cent.

• Rajvilās (near Jaipur, Rajasthan): The first of the Oberoi’s flagship Vilas properties, built like a traditional fortified Rajasthani palace, Rajvilās may not have the history of an authentic heritage hotel, but it offers a level of comfort, luxury, and service other properties cannot match, enabling even the most world-weary guest to “live in the princely style of Rajasthan.” .

• Aman-i-Khás (Ranthambhore, Rajasthan): Located a stone’s throw from India’s most famous tiger sanctuary, the superb accommodations—huge temperature-controlled Mughal-style royal tents stylishly divided by cool white drapes—and impeccable service are distinctly Aman. At night, lanterns light your way to the giant flaming uruli (large metal vessel) around which guests gather to enjoy the night sky and the ethereal calm, broken only by the occasional call from the wilds.

• Mihir Garh (Rohet, near Jodhpur, Rajasthan): Gallop up to this brand-new property on a Marwari stallion to see the silhouette of your dreams appear out of the horizon against the setting sun. Recently established by the same clan responsible for Rohet Garh (a reputable heritage property), this stunning, intimate nine-suite desert sand castle will capture your heart and fuel your imagination, filling your stay with wonderful memories. With a plunge pool or Jacuzzi in every suite, and sweeping views of the surrounding desert and farmland, it’s sure to leave a lasting impression.

• Rawla Narlai (Rural Rajasthan): Rawla Narlai, the 17th-century hunting retreat of the Maharajah of Jodphur, is another rural gem that will have you feeling like a royal guest—and it’s the ideal stopover if you’re traveling between Udaipur and Jodhpur. Surrounded by the rocky granite outcrops deep in the Aravalli Hills, with a pretty medieval village to explore, a gorgeous pool to cool off in, and a stiff climb to reach the summit of a miraculous rock, it’s more than a mere stopover—you’ll stay for 1 night and wish you’d planned for three.

• Lake Palace Hotel (Udaipur, Rajasthan): Built on an island by the maharana in 1740 as a cool summer retreat (swimming distance from his palace), this is perhaps the most romantic—certainly the most photographed—hotel in India. Whizzing across the waters to your private palace, you’ll feel you’ve finally arrived—and if you’ve booked one of the heritage suites, you have. Floating like a beautiful white ship on the waters of Lake Pichola, the hotel offers excellent service, a spa-on-water and spectacular rooftop dinners overlooking the City Palace. All with picture-perfect 360-degree views.

• Shahpura Bagh (Shahpura, Bhilwara, halfway between Jaipur and Udaipur, Rajasthan): Located in a lush 18-hectare (45-acre) wooded estate with a sense of peace and homeliness not found in any chain hotel, yet also without the sometimes cloying claustrophobia of a heritage property, Shahpura Bagh is a destination location, even with the kids. A family run

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