India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [8]
• Taj Mahal Palace (Mumbai): George Bernard Shaw famously claimed that after staying here, he no longer had any need to visit the real Taj Mahal in Agra. Built just over a century ago by an Indian industrialist after he was treated abominably by the colonial snobs at the city’s then leading hotel (since demolished), the Taj Mahal Palace was recently reopened after a year of renovations following the 2008 terrorist attacks in Mumbai—it continues to host the world’s rich and famous, and remains the most celebrated address in Mumbai.
• Boutique Getaways in Goa: Parisian fashion stylist Claudia Derain and her husband, Hari Ajwani, came to Goa on vacation and—like so many—never left. Together with Goan architect Dean D’Cruz, they’ve created an Arabian Nights fantasy in Nilaya Hermitage, with only 12 “cosmic-themed” guest suites and gorgeously informal public spaces overlooking paddy fields and coconut-palm groves. Derain and Ajwani are also responsible for the superbly located, beautifully renovated Fort Tiracol, a seven-room “hotel” that locates you at the northernmost tip of Goa with only a small, undiscovered village and spectacular views for company. But if you’d prefer the atmosphere of a homey, intimate, and delightfully designed guesthouse set in a village not too far from a gorgeous beach, then head south and kick back at Simon Haywood’s Vivenda dos Palhaços (“House of Clowns”) in Majorda—a place of simple-yet-sumptuous enchantment where you set the rhythm. See chapter 6.
• Fabulous Beachfront Villas in Goa: As Goa catches a wake-up call and rediscovers that the neo-hippies are arriving in an altogether more sophisticated avatar, the recent trend has been towards creating wonderful self-sufficient hideaways where you call the shots and there’s no chance of fellow guests disturbing the peace or gate crashing your party—which, of course, you’re welcome to throw. There are a few special villas to choose from but amongst our favorites are the ultra-luxurious Aashyana Lakhanpal; the back-to-basics toes-in-the-sand Elsewhere…; and The Hobbit, a fashionably quirky rustic chic “house” built into the rocks and furnished with most modern conveniences.
• Adrift aboard Discovery (Kerala): The best way to experience Kerala’s backwaters is floating along on a traditional kettuvallam (houseboat), but the stylish Malabar Group has upped the ante with Discovery, a funky modern interpretation of the Keralan houseboat concept. Accommodations comprise a comfortable and stylish bedroom with well-plumbed en-suite bathroom, separate lounge (can double as a second bedroom), and a rooftop deck (furnished with dining table and loungers) where you can while away the day, looked after by a dedicated staff of three, including a private chef. The packages can include a night at the aptly named Privacy, our favorite backwaters villa.
• Gracious Keralan Homestays (Olavipe, Backwaters): Experience life on a working plantation, then dine on exquisite home-cooked meals at the family dining table, personally hosted by urbane, charming owners—that’s what the best homestays are all about. It’s like finding yourself at a private house party, where you are the guest of honor. Our top pick is Olavipe, a stately home on an island in the backwaters, where Anthony and Rema provide the warmest welcome this side of Fort Kochi, ensuring that you leave replenished and heartsick to leave.
• Green Lagoon (Backwaters, Kerala): Not only do you get a reconstructed Keralite villa all to yourself, but an entire island, complete with a superb pool, full-time butler, and a sense of being in the midst of an entirely different reality. This is the ultimate escape for the well-heeled individualist.
• Dune Eco-Village (near Pondicherry, Tamil Nadu): This is the coolest, most individualistic lodging option in Tamil Nadu: An ever-evolving seaside “village” with totally unique cottages, from eco-designed traditional thatched single-room units on stilts right on the beach, to luxury walled L-shaped villas with private plunge pools set amidst sprawling grounds. Under