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dancing goddesses, and live musicians whipping up tunes on tabla and sitar. Despite being a very serious-minded business hotel (and a little old-fashioned), you’ll be very well looked after here, and take comfort in knowing it’s one of the most environmentally conscious places to stay. It’s also where the Dalai Lama stays when he’s in town. Built on reclaimed swampland, The Leela now brims with tropical greenery and the lushest gardens in town. Competition from newer, more innovative hotels has prompted an upgrade of all facilities, including the plush modern rooms—although we still think the large amoeboid pool, set next to cascading fountains and lotus ponds, is the best place to be (you’ll hardly believe you’re just 5 minutes from the airport in one of the world’s largest cities). To take full advantage, reserve a Royal Club room, which comes with excellent perks (and rooms offering the slickest, most cosseting luxury).

Sahar, Mumbai 400 059. 022/6691-1234. Fax 022/6691-1212. www.theleela.com. 390 units. Rs 18,000–Rs 19,000 premier double; Rs 22,500 Royal Club double; Rs 26,000 Royal Club parlor; Rs 26,000–Rs 150,000 suite. Royal club rates include breakfast; rates exclude 10% tax. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 4 restaurants, bar; airport transfers (free for Royal Club guests; Rs 800 international, Rs 1,200 domestic); health club and spa; pool; room service; Wi-Fi (Rs 562/hr.; Rs 899/day). In room A/C, TV, hair dryer, Jacuzzi (in suite), minibar,f Wi-Fi (free in suites; Rs 562/hr.; Rs 899/day).

Moderate

The best value in the vicinity of the airports is offered by the slick, no-nonsense Hotel Suba Galaxy (N.S. Phadke Rd., off Western Express Highway, Andheri [E], Mumbai 400 069; 022/2682-1188; www.hotelsubagalaxy.com; Rs 5,500 double including tax and breakfast), which offers a trouble-free stay in well-maintained rooms at a much better rate than you’ll find at the large luxury places (although if you score a very good deal at either of the Hyatts, definitely stay there). Rooms are modern and stripped back, but have everything you’ll need for a comfortable overnight stay—you’ll need to ask if you want a large bed, though, as most rooms are singles and twins.

Note: If you only need a room for daytime use between flights, this hotel also has a special “Day” rate of Rs 3,500 for rooms used between 9am and 6pm only.

5 Where to Dine

Nowhere in India is dining more rewarding than in Mumbai. The city literally holds thousands of restaurants, and being a city of migrants, every kind of Indian cuisine is represented—though Konkan, or coastal food, is considered the local specialty. You can mingle with the city’s crème de la crème at fine-dining or hip venues, or choose from a vast array of inexpensive eating places. And while traditional restaurant-type experiences are varied and plentiful, we urge you to get down with the locals from time to time and sample traditional street food—like vada pav and pani puri—from one or two of the recommended outlets (see “The Skinny on Street Food” box); we can’t guarantee hygiene at places we don’t mention, but your concierge should be able to tell you where you can try delicious local specialties without doing yourself an injury. Also on your must-do list should be a visit to an Udipi (or south Indian fast food) restaurant, and a meal at one of Mumbai’s classic Irani restaurants serving fresh inexpensive breads and chai. Not surprisingly, vegetarians are particularly well catered to in just about all Mumbai restaurants. Note: Bear in mind that Mumbaikars usually venture out to eat late, around 9pm, so if you’re intent on eating at a popular fine-dining restaurant and don’t have a reservation, you may be able to score a table if you show up by 7:30pm.

Old School Seafood Thrillers

Anyone with a penchant for seafood will love dining in Mumbai—whether it’s Coastal, Konkani, Mangalorean, or Malvani cuisine, you are in for a treat. Besides Mahesh Lunch Home , Konkan Café , and Trishna , there are plenty of old-fashioned places where you can find truly excellent fish and seafood, usually without