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denting your wallet much at all. Two hugely popular local favorites are right near the tourist hubs of South Mumbai: Do make an effort to check out Apoorva (Vasta House, S.A. Brelvi Marg, near Horniman Circle, Fort; 022/2287-0335 or 022/2288-1457; daily 11:30am–4pm and 6pm–midnight), which has not only wonderfully authentic Manglorean fare (including delicious prawn koliwada), but a massive range of crabs, oysters, lobster, pomfret, and other thrillingly fishy fare, some of which is especially tempered for foreign tastes (read: nonspicy). In a similar league is Excellensea (Bharat House, 317 Shahid Bhagat Singh Rd.; 022/2261-8991) where the obvious choice is prawn gassi, rich with sauce that demands mopping up with some fresh Indian breads (like idlis, appams, and neer dosas). Note that if you are in any of these Konkan restaurants, you may want to try the sol kadi, a slightly pungent coconut milk drink—it takes some getting used to, but is a great appetizer. Farther north, in Bandra, you’ll get real value for money and atmosphere at the friendly Soul Fry (Pali Mala Rd, across from Pali Market; 022/2604-6892), serving home-style Goan dishes. Try the flaky stuffed grilled rawas (a local fish). Monday is karaoke night, and even if you can’t sing to save your life, it’s a great experience to watch extremely talented locals unabashedly take the mic and have the whole place rocking well past midnight. If you’d rather not head all the way to the suburbs, there’s a newer branch, called Soul Fry Casa (Currimjee Bldg., MG Rd.; 022/2267-1421; daily 7pm–midnight), opposite Mumbai University in Fort and promises the best of the original Soul Fry (and often even better food), plus lots of live music and action around the bar to accompany the delicious seafood.

SOUTH MUMBAI: COLABA, FORT, CHURCHGATE & MARINE DRIVE

South Mumbai

Very Expensive

If you really want to dine among the crème de la crème and don’t mind shelling out top dollar for the experience, then by all means book a night at The Zodiac Grill , one of the fine dining establishments at the Taj Mahal Palace & Tower. The quality of the French cuisine—served in an atmosphere of restrained opulence—has made it a legend among the city’s well heeled, many of whom no doubt come here to be completely cushioned from mainstream society. Main courses start at Rs 1,950, and a degustation menu runs Rs 5,500 to Rs 6,500

Indigo FUSION/INTERNATIONAL Restaurateur-chef Rahul Akerkar has created a restaurant that tops every food critic’s A-list and is widely heralded as one of the world’s best. Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt, Liz Hurley, the Clintons, and every other international celebrity passing through Mumbai seems to stop here. Indigo’s chic ambience is enhanced by the clientele: By 9:30pm the entire bar section is heaving with the city’s Beautiful People. Most important, though: Local devotees rave about the food. The excellent risotto with black olive tapenade is one constant on a menu that changes once a year—make it your first choice, but don’t be afraid to sample many more of the outstanding dishes. Their tuna loin (spiced with fenugreek and a Shiraz and clove reduction) is scrumptious, and vegetarians will be blown away by the many choices for them. End with the chocolate fondant with jalapeño peppers or, if available, the dreamy lemon soufflé. Indigo’s Sunday brunch with accompanying jazz band and free-flowing Indian liquor is legendary; if you’d like to stuff yourself silly while rubbing shoulders with Mumbai socialites, book in advance.

4 Mandlik House, Colaba. 022/6636-8999 or -8980. www.foodindigo.com. Reservations essential. Main courses Rs 485–Rs 1,850; Sun brunch Rs 1,744. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon–2:45pm and 7:30–11:45pm.

Kandahar NORTHWEST FRONTIER This has long been one of our favorite Mumbai dining establishments and a great place to sample the traditionally rich cuisine of the Northwest Frontier as well as enjoying some lighter, home-style dishes. At the time of writing, however, Kandahar remains closed while The Oberoi hotel undergoes extensive renovations and