India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [124]
Indigo Deli ECLECTIC/INTERNATIONAL This fabulous upmarket-yet-buzzing eatery is very much in the image of a New York delicatessen. Offering such down-to-earth fare as pastas and burgers, but also catering to the health conscious and more refined palate, the space-deprived venue packs in a lively, devoted crowd—they arrive for the Western breakfasts (served all day long), and keep going until after midnight. Besides daily specials and a la carte dishes, you can choose from a variety of imported cheeses, cold meats, and fresh breads—all of exceptional quality—that can be transformed into sandwiches of your choice; check the counter for scrumptiously fresh salads, too. There’s comfort food galore: pizzas (yes, the proper, crispy kind), near-perfect risotto, and on a hot day their tomato gazpacho really hits the spot. Prices are steep—and you’ll pay through your nose if you want a glass of wine—but the ambience is so on the pulse of Mumbai that just about anyone you talk to will mention this among their favorites in a city that’s plump with great choices.
Ground Floor, Pheroza Bldg., Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharishi Marg, Apollo Bunder. 022/6655-1010. Sandwiches average Rs 350; main courses Rs 450–Rs 750. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 9am–12:30am.
Leopold Café ECLECTIC Okay, so this is pretty much the quintessential tourist eatery, these days known as much for the buzzy atmosphere as it is as the first choice for fans of the David Gregory Roberts novel, Shantaram. This is where wannabe literary types come in hopes of scoping their hero or perhaps catching a moment when some of the underworld activity written about in the book actually comes to life. In reality, this is simply a very overhyped dining institution, but one you’d do well to experience (if only once, and briefly) while in Colaba. Why it’s such a hit with foreigners is a mystery, since the food is good but not exceptional, the atmosphere can be noisy and rather smoky, and bills are often wrong. If you’re keen to get the inside scoop on how Bollywood films are made, hang out here; casting agents looking for foreigners to work as extras on current productions frequently scan the clientele for able bodies at this favored travelers’ hangout.
Colaba Causeway. 022/2287-3362. Main courses Rs 95–Rs 140. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 7am–midnight.
Mahesh Lunch Home COASTAL/SEAFOOD The ceiling may be too low and the tables too close together, but this seafood restaurant should not be missed if you love fish—it’s one of Mumbai’s best restaurants, consistently dishing out exceptional specialties. Everything is incredibly fresh, but favorites include surmai fry, pomfret curry, and tandoori pomfret—all outstanding. The latter (listed as a starter, but available as a main) is served flawlessly moist; eaten with butter naan, it provides a heavenly gastronomic experience. Also try the scrumptious prawns Koliwada, crab tandoori, pomfret in green masala, or any of the fish curries or gassis, all first-rate. (Note that gassi refers to the thick, spicy, coconut-based Manglorean curry, while the “curries” on the menu are a thinner version of the same.) Mahesh also serves meat, chicken, and Chinese dishes, but only the misguided would come here for any of that.
8D Cawasji Patel St., off Pherozeshah Mehta Rd., Fort. 022/2287-0938 or 022/2202-3965. Most main seafood dishes Rs 110–Rs 270; jumbo pomfret/crab/lobster Rs 400–Rs 1,700. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–4pm and 6–11:30pm.
Moshe’s MEDITERRANEAN/LIGHT FARE This upmarket cafe showcases the culinary talents and business acumen of Moshe Shek. A Mumbaiker who honed his skills abroad before returning home to etch out his own bit of celebrity, he’s made swift work of turning this tightly packed space into a hugely successful miniempire—there are now several branches around the city, and he has a near-compulsive loyal (and sometimes very loud) following. You too should definitely turn up to sample his adventurous Middle Eastern fusion food, or even just to