India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [125]
7 Minoo Manor, Cuffe Parade, Colaba. 022/2216-1226. Main courses Rs 250–Rs 575, breakfast Rs 50–Rs 200, sandwiches Rs 170–Rs 200. AE, MC, V. Daily 7:30am–midnight.
Feeling Peckish?
Towards the southern end of Colaba Causeway is one food treat spot you shouldn’t pass by. Theobroma (Cusrow Baug, Shop no. 24, Colaba Causeway; 022/6529-2929) is a small, quite marvelous bakery run by Kainaz Messman and her mother, Kamal, who make you feel immediately at home. You can sit at one of the few tables and nibble on their famous brownies (there are 10 varieties to choose from) or one of the other innumerable rich desserts and pastries. If you’re not the sweet tooth type, you can choose from various gourmet-quality sandwiches (try the chicken pesto), or freshly baked breads, the best of which is the light, flavorful focaccia.
Samovar INDIAN/LIGHT FARE This long, narrow restaurant inside Jehangir Art Gallery is another South Mumbai institution that has retained its charm and low prices in spite of its popularity. With quick, efficient service and a policy of not hurrying diners even if others are waiting, this is the perfect stopover after a day roaming the Prince of Wales museum and other local landmarks. Start with a delicious seasonal fruit juice—the guava juice is the best when it’s in season. Boti rolls (spiced meat wrapped in chapatis) rival with parathas (fried breads with a great assortment of stuffings) to satiate the taste buds along with the yummy bean-sprout salad. A stop here is a must: This is as close to home cooking as you are likely to get on a short visit to Mumbai. At press time, there was some talk of Samovar closing down, so call ahead to check.
Jehangir Art Gallery, Kala Ghoda, Fort. 022/2284-8000. Main courses Rs 50–Rs 160. No credit cards. Mon–Sat 11am–7pm.
What’s Up with Udipi?
Restaurants serving South Indian fast food (also called Udipi restaurants) can be found on just about every street, and a meal at one is an essential Mumbai experience. The Udipi phenomenon arrived in Mumbai in 1935 when Rama Nayak, a Kannadiga (migrant from Karnataka) entrepreneur started the legendary Udipi Boarding House in Fort. Serving traditional, nourishing, pure vegetarian meals, it was named after the town near his home village, and after he later opened two more restaurants with Udipi in the name and other migrants from western Karnataka cottoned onto the same business idea, “Udipi” became the generic moniker used by Mumbaikers when referring to South Indian eateries. There are plenty of places to choose from—in fact, one official statistic states that Kannadigas own 70% of the city’s 11,000 or so officially licensed restaurants—but if you sample only one and are willing to go the extra mile, make it one of our two favorites in the South Indian hub of Matunga. At the compact Café Madras (King’s Circle; 022/2401-4419; Tues–Sun 7am–2:30pm and 4–11pm) it’s Tamilian-style dosas that reign supreme, and it’s worth sampling a few different varieties (check the chalkboard for the day’s specials) to see what a difference the type of flour makes. For an authentic South Indian thali, you’ve simply got to try A. Ramanayak Udipi Shri Krishna Boarding (Lal Bahadur Shastri Market Bldg., first floor, near Matunga Railway Station; 022/2414-2422; Tues–Sun 10:30am–2:30pm and 7–10pm), now run by Rama Nayak’s son. Purchase a coupon for either a limited or unlimited thali, and grab a seat; you can expect a no-frills experience where food—chapattis or puris,