India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [126]
CENTRAL MUMBAI: WORLI, TARDEO & CHOWPATTY BEACH
Among the most famous eateries in this central part of town, is Jewel of India ( 020/2494-9435; daily 12:30–3pm and 6:30–11:30pm) at the Nehru Centre, although we often find ourselves completely absorbed at the bar, or checking out what the many Mumbai families who frequent this place are getting up to (Sunday afternoon is best for social voyeurism). It’s a large, elegant, old-fashioned kind of place, and the menu looks more like a shopping list than an aid to decision-making—there are literally dozens of Indian dishes; your best bet is to call Agneto Fernandes, the maitre d’, over to your table and ask him what’s what. He’d like nothing better than to help you choose wisely.
Copper Chimney KEBABS/MUGHLAI For more than a quarter of a century, Copper Chimney has delighted those looking for the perfect kebabs. To this end, two pages of the menu are dedicated to kebabs, from the popular reshmi kebab (chicken) to the jhinga nisha (tandoori prawn kebabs). These tender, creamy, smoky-flavored, melt-in-your-mouth kebabs can be followed by traditional Dum Pukht specialties such as chicken makhani (butter chicken) or the even more exquisite Peshawari lamb. No matter what you pick, you will leave satisfied. There’s also a daily buffet lunch, but don’t be swayed by the variety—some of the best items on the menu (such as the unfailingly wonderful butter chicken) are not offered at the buffet. Note that while Copper Chimney branches are found all over the city, this is the one to patronize (don’t confuse it with the bland mall version on the other side of Worli).
12-A Lotus Court, Dr. Annie Besant Rd., Worli. 022/2492-0505 or -5353. Main courses Rs 210–Rs 400; tiger prawns Rs 725. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 12:30–3:30pm and 7:30pm–12:30am.
Oh Calcutta! BENGALI The famous hand-pulled rickshaw of Kolkata stands outside this singular eatery at Tardeo, not far from the Haji Ali mosque. The restaurant’s specialty is its freshwater fish, flown in especially from Kolkata. For starters, kakra chingri bhapa, or prawn and crabmeat cake spiced and steamed in banana leaves, is superb, but so is everything else; even the simple fish fry is outstanding. Close your eyes and order either the daab chingri or the chingri malai curry, both coconut-milk-based prawn curries, both different and gently flavorful, with steamed rice. For more robust flavors, try illish machher patur, hilsa fish marinated with mustard and green chili paste and steamed in banana leaf. As a Bengali restaurant, fish dominates the menu, but vegetarians are well catered to and can order a number of dishes, including the classic banana flower and potato dish mochar ghonto.
Hotel Rosewood, Tulsiwadi Lane, Tardeo. 022/2496-3114 or 022/6680-6216. Reservations recommended on weekend nights. Main courses Rs 225–Rs 550. AE, MC, V. Daily noon–3pm and 7pm–midnight.
Olive Bar and Kitchen MEDITERRANEAN Despite its reputation as one of the city’s singularly popular Bollywood stargazing venues (not to mention being a big hit with singles of all persuasions looking to score), this glittering übertrendy establishment also happens to serve very good Mediterranean meals (studiously prepared by Olive’s award-winning chef, Max Massimilianto Orlati—yes, a true Italian). The menu is fairly predictable, and you’ll probably want to stick to the lighter Italian dishes—you wouldn’t want to be too distracted from the scene around you by a large plate of food. Arrive early and sit in the lovely open-air space outside, always buzzing with Beautiful People; it’s a perfect spot for lingering over multiple drinks—and who knows which hot star you might bump into. Note: There is now a branch of Olive at the Mahalaxmi Race Course, where lunch is served daily. Mahalaxmi Branch is at Amateur Riders Club, Mahalaxmi Race Course, Mahalaxmi ( 022/4085-9595 or -9596); open daily 12:30–4:30pm.
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