India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [127]
San Qi ASIAN You’ll be stumped for choice at this two-level fine dining establishment at the Four Seasons—it’s really three eateries seamlessly joined at the hip. Three top chefs—imported from their respective native lands and armed with a desire to create culinary adventure while satisfying traditional tastes. Chef Kato’s chawanmushi custard with foie gras is a legend in the making, but you’ll probably want to join the crowd at the teppanyaki counter, or investigate the enticing robatayaki offerings. Mumbai’s fresh seafood works well in Chef Then Kok Leong’s kitchen; the wok-fried prawns are done simply with garlic, and he prepares a sublime marinade for his crisp pomfret fillet. But you really should check out Chef Shahid Latif’s fresh take on traditional Indian (mostly Lucknowi) dishes. His kebabs (worth ordering just to see what comes out of those impressive-looking state-of-the-art traditional ovens) are amazing, but there are contemporary India offerings from the tandoor, such as smoked honey mustard sea bass with sautéed greens, fennel, and cumin—talk about giving Indian cuisine an international edge!
Four Seasons Hotel, 114 Dr. E Moses Rd., Worli. 022/2481-8000. Reservations recommended. Japanese main courses Rs 600–Rs 2,100; sushi and sashimi Rs 300–Rs 650; teppanyaki main courses Rs 1,200–Rs 2,400; robatayaki Rs 350–Rs 1,200; Cantonese main courses Rs 700–Rs 1,300; Indian main courses Rs 500–Rs 1,200; set menus Rs 1,300–Rs 1,900. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am—3pm and 7pm—midnight.
THE NORTHERN SUBURBS: BANDRA & JUHU
If you don’t mind stepping inside the globalized interior of yet another of Mumbai’s many Western chain hotels, then we don’t mind drawing your attention to the quality Italian on offer at Mezzo Mezzo ( 022/6693-3220) in Juhu’s JW Marriott. Popular with well-to-do Mumbaikers, this is one hotel eatery that’s worth venturing out of tourist Colaba for (and even more enjoyable if you get a table by the window). Another lavish hotel haunt is Vista at the Taj Lands End ( 022/6668-1234); it’s extremely popular for decadent, long-winded Sunday brunches and languid, lazy knock-out breakfasts. It’s open round-the-clock, so is also the perfect place to satisfy a crazy hunger after a long, hard night on the town—and when the sun comes up, there are great views over the ocean.
At the other end of the spectrum is Govinda’s ( 022/2620-0337), at the Hare Krishna Temple in Juhu (see below).
Aurus MODERN EUROPEAN Okay, we admit it’s not going to be picking up too many awards for its food—it’s decadent-sounding and occasionally quite good, but certainly not memorable—but when it comes to atmosphere and glamour (models and air-kissing movie stars are virtually part of the decor), there are few places that can hold a candle to it. Candles, in fact, set just the right mood out on the deck that edges onto the beach (reserve a table); indoors, the atmosphere steers more towards sophistication. Many hip Mumbaikers see this more as a place to spend all night sipping cocktails created by a team of studious mixologists, and you’ll probably end up agreeing with them—do give the food a chance, though. The Chilean sea bass (with saffron cream) is usually spot-on, the lamb chops perfectly grilled, and jalapeño chicken just delicious. A word of caution, though—this place is booming on weekends (Fri especially) and you may find the mix of music and rowdy scenesters at the bar a bit too overwhelming—another reason to book an outdoor table.
Ground Floor, Nichani Kutir, Juhu Tara Rd., Juhu. 022/6710-6666. Reservations highly recommended. Main courses Rs 500–Rs 1,250. AE, MC, V. Daily 7:30pm–12:30am.
Govinda’s VEGETARIAN/NORTH INDIAN A sign above the entrance reads “WELCOME TO HARE KRISHNA LAND,” and you’re encouraged to “spiritualize your eating,” but the food is tasty,