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excellent value, and perfectly hygienic. At the large, clean marble-floored dining hall of the ISKCON temple (not too far from Juhu’s beachfront), you can gorge from a massive all-vegetarian buffet (no onions or garlic, either) happy in the knowledge that your food has already been tasted by the gods, and is therefore blessed. Between mealtimes, there’s a snack and a la carte menu—try Govinda’s Special Dosa, stuffed with vegetables, cheese, and cottage cheese, and wash it down with a spicy special thandai, a milk drink made with fruit, sweet syrup, and masala spices; it’s refreshing and delicious. Sidestepping all promises that this is “cuisine with philosophy,” you can now order pasta, pizzas, and even mocktails here, but we’d suggest you stick to the traditional Indian dishes, which are excellent, if often cooked in pure ghee (clarified butter), which can make the meal quite heavy.

ISKCON, Hare Krishna Mandir, Juhu Tara Rd., Juhu. 022/2620-0337. Buffet Rs 270; Sun buffet Rs 320; snack time and a la carte menu dishes Rs 30–Rs 120. MC, V. Daily 7:30–11am, 12:30–3:30pm, 4–6pm and 7:30–10:30pm.

Out of the Blue EUROPEAN/INTERNATIONAL Part nonstop festival, part restaurant, this vibey Bandra hangout attracts a savvy crowd out for a bit of entertainment as accompaniment to some fairly decent dishes. There are art exhibitions, tarot readers, musicians, magicians—plus there’s room for many other improvised events and happenings likely to raise an eyebrow and keep you smiling. It’s strictly European on the food front, but with hints of local influence (how about the masala mafia pasta, or desi fondue?) to keep things interesting. We love the seafood—prawns marinated in chili and lime, and deliciously spiced grilled fish. Plus there’s a spa menu for anyone watching his or her figure.

Hotel Pali Hills, 14 Union Park, off Carter Rd., Khar (W). 022/2605-8227. Main courses Rs 175–Rs 400. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon–3:30pm and 7pm–midnight.

Penne ITALIAN Like a bright, modern trattoria, this snazzy, unpretentious Juhu restaurant offers authentic pasta, risotto and 13-inch Neapolitan-style pizzas, and is a good place for a reasonably priced steak. Start with gamberi Portofino—fresh prawns sautéed with lemon, chili peppers, garlic, and herbs, and served on a bed of pasta with creamy white wine sauce—and then order the New Zealand rack of lamb, which is oven-grilled, scented with lavender, and hugely successful. Lighter dishes, like the vodka-flamed penne pasta, and the lobster risotto with Jura whiskey are also highlights, as is the delectable grilled John Dory, served with a sublime lemon butter mustard. However, if you want to join the regulars for a massive full-fledged feast, you’ll have to turn up for the massively popular weekly barbecue buffet that happens every Sunday between noon and 4:30pm—come very hungry.

14 Silver Beach, AB Nair Rd., Juhu. 022/2625-5706. Main courses Rs 330–Rs 1,450; pizza Rs 400–Rs 525. MC, V. Daily noon–12:30am.

Prithvi Café LIGHT FARE Another prime people-watching spot, this pleasant, unpretentious café is where many of Mumbai’s up-and-coming and struggling artistes come to nosh and discuss their art. The cafe serves great fresh parathas and a variety of teas and coffees over which you can linger undisturbed—the nonalcoholic Irish coffee is legendary. The menu is a literal tour de force of Mumbai’s best-loved dishes and snacks, borrowed from the eating houses that made them famous. It’s an ideal place to sample traditional chaat, yummy samosas, good old vada pao, and excellent kebabs, without having to wonder through the city.

Prithvi Theatre, Janki Kutir Society, Juhu Tara Rd., Juhu. 022/2617-4118. Main courses Rs 50–Rs 275. No credit cards. Mon 3–11:30pm; Tues–Sun 12:30–11:30pm.

The Thali: A Meal Unto Itself

You can’t leave this city without consuming at least one thali, the meal that really tests the size of your appetite! It works like this: Sit down, and in less than a minute you’re expected to declare which thali you want—ordinary, special, and so on. Seconds later, a large, stainless-steel