(or silver) plate (thali) arrives along with six to eight small bowls (katoris) resting on it. The waiters then fill every one of the multiple katoris as well as the rest of the plate with a large assortment of steaming-hot spiced vegetables, savories, dals, beans, rotis, puris, and potentially much more. To wash it down, you’re served water (best avoided unless you’re certain it’s been purified) and a glass of delicious, superthin, cumin-flavored buttermilk (chaas). As you eat, your katoris will be topped up, so indicate what you want for seconds, thirds, fourths—a veritable onslaught that won’t stop until you say so (although some waistline-minded restaurateurs have started serving “limited thalis”). Then it’s a round of rice or khichdi (a mixture of rice and dal) and, in some restaurants, dessert. Not only are thalis a great value (you pay Rs 50–Rs 250), but they come pretty close to the home cooking of the country’s Gujarati (or Rajasthani) population (and there are thalis from most other parts of the country, too). There are so many good thali places to choose from, but Panchvati Gaurav (Vithaldas Thackersay Marg, across from Bombay Hospital, Marine Lines; 022/2208-4877; Tues–Sun 11am–3pm and 7–10:30pm; Mon lunch only) definitely stands out—especially at lunchtime, when office workers flock here. It’s dedicated to producing Gujarati thalis that are world-class, excellent value, and served with a bit of a flourish (they even have a nonspicy thali). Another local favorite, and the ideal place to end a visit to nearby Crawford Market, is Rajdhani (361 Sheik Memom St.; 022/2342-6919; daily noon–4pm, Mon–Sat 7–10:30pm), which also specializes in Gujarati meals (with Rajasthani thalis once a week)—the space is tiny, but the tastes are exceptional. If you’re looking for a thali joint closer to Colaba, Chetana (34 K. Dubash Marg, Kala Ghoda; 022/2284-4968; www.chetana.com) is a highly recommended, strictly vegetarian place with many delicious options, including a Maharasthrian thali, and one aimed at health-conscious foodies. Attached to the cafe is a very handy bookstore that’s especially good for books on spirituality and Indian philosophy, history, and culture.
6 Shopping
From internationally renowned haute couture to dirt-cheap one-season wonders, intricate jewelry and unique antiques to tawdry gifts and fabulous textiles, Mumbai is known as a shopper’s paradise, and you’ll find pretty much everything the country has to offer here. If you’re shopping on the street or in the markets (see “Markets,” earlier in this chapter), take your time, sift and sort, establish authenticity, and, if necessary, don’t be afraid to bargain hard. Bear in mind that (as elsewhere in India) a “bargain,” particularly when it comes to jewelry and antiques, is probably a cheap bauble or reproduction—fakes are a dime a dozen, as are the con men who sell them. By and large, you can steer clear of the kitschy outlets that line Colaba Causeway and the surrounding area, but be on the lookout for little gems that may be hiding down a side street (we’ve mentioned quite a few below). Besides the areas described here, you will find that the suburb of Bandra has become a local shopping haven, with Linking Road, Hill Road, and several other streets overflowing with shops and street stalls selling clothes, shoes, and everything else under the sun. In addition, Western-style multistory department stores are filled with all kinds of garments and fashions, and the trend towards a fully-fledged mall culture is definitely in full gear—sadly (for some), most of the shops are Western franchises, meaning you need to hunt a bit to discover underrepresented local outlets. You’ll find several shopping complexes in the converted mill compounds of Lower Parel (right next to Worli, in central Mumbai)—the Phoenix Mills area is a shopper’s dream. Note, too, that most major stores described below have a parallel store in either Bandra or Juhu, so if you’re based in north Mumbai, call and check before making a trip downtown. If you don’t mind a potentially massive capital