India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [139]
Polly Esther’s Although we think this überpopular Colaba nightclub is way past its prime, it continues to attract a heady crowd—from teenyboppers to 40-somethings—with its mix of predictable mix of Bollywood, pop, and ’80s music. The retro theme is echoed in posters of Michael Jackson and Madonna, while a roving Polaroid man takes your picture for Rs 100. There’s plenty of space so things never feel cramped and crowded, but it’s never going to be considered sexy or swanky, either. Open Tuesday to Sunday 9pm to 3am; entry from Rs 1,000 per couple. Gordon House Hotel, Apollo Bunder, Colaba. 022/2287-1122.
Privé Privé, behind Radio Club in Colaba, is so nauseatingly exclusive that members of the “general” public are only welcome on Wednesday nights. As a foreign visitor, however, you’ll surely squeeze past the bouncers—just make sure your concierge arranges this in advance, and dress like it’s your last night on earth. On the other hand, if you’re a card-carrying celebrity or in with the Bollywood aristocrats, you might just stand a chance on your own. Incidentally, we think it’s incredibly snooty. It’s open Wednesday through Saturday from 9:30pm to 1:30am, and may go on later. 41/44 Mon repos, Ground Floor, Minoo Desai Rd., Colaba. 022/2202-8700.
Zenzi Mills For voyeurs there’s plenty to see as you tap your feet to mostly excellent electronic tracks in a venue that’s refreshingly uncommercial. Sun Mills Compound, Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel. 022/4345-5455.
Late-Night Munchies?
And finally, if it’s well past midnight and you’re hungry, there are a couple of popular late-night feeding grounds in South Mumbai, both of which are real institutions among the party crowd. Zaffran (B Block, Sitaram Bldg., Dr. D.N. Rd., near Crawford Market; 022/2344-2690) has good Indian food (the murgh zaffrani tikka is delicious) and service going till 4am. A real late-night Mumbai institution in Colaba is Bade Miya’s (Tulloch St., Apollo Bunder; 022/2284-8038; daily 7pm–4am), a down-to-earth hangout for anyone looking to satisfy a hunger; there are kebabs, and naan stuffed with egg and minced chicken or lamb (forget about what that sounds like—try it!), and very spicy chicken livers—cooked on an open grill and served in slightly shoddy surrounds (bear in mind that you’re here for the food, nothing else).
8 Pune & the Osho International Meditation Resort
Pune is around 125km (77 1⁄2 miles) SE of Mumbai
Pune is Maharashtra’s second major city and known to seekers of spiritual enlightenment the world over as the place where the dynamic New Age guru, Bhagwan Rajneesh—known to his devotees and enemies as Osho—established his controversial commune back in the 1970s. Today, Osho’s vision for an appropriately modern environment where people from around the world can come to unlock the meaning of his discourses on spiritual enlightenment is realized in the form of a “Meditation Resort.” Neither an ashram nor a cult headquarters (as many naysayers would have you believe), Osho’s landscaped New Age campus (the grounds are exquisite enough to be an attraction in themselves) is a magnet for all sorts of people looking to find a different sort of meaning in their lives. They’re not the only visitors to the city, though, since Pune has become a major industrial hub, attracting many foreigners who come to work and strike deals. Above all else, Pune looks and feels like a city