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that—like Mumbai—is on the move, expanding and modernizing at an incredible rate. While the spirit of upward mobility is evident, the city is also brimming with references to its past, particularly to that most venerated Maratha freedom fighter Chhatrapati Shivaji, who fought bitterly here against the Mughals who sought to conquer Maharashtra—you will, however, need to visit Pune’s slightly cluttered old quarter to get a feel for the past; in particular, look out for symbols of Pune’s immense love for the elephant-headed god, Ganesh, venerated here with gay abandon during the annual Ganesh Chaturthi. The area is easy enough to explore, even if only to check out the beautifully decaying havelis that line the streets, visit its colorful fruit and vegetable market, and check out the exhibits at one of the country’s best-stocked museums. Besides being a university town with plenty of diversions for a younger crowd, Pune’s altitude of around 600m (1,968 ft.) means that it stays relatively cool, and doesn’t suffer from any of Mumbai’s incessant humidity. For now the city also remains comparatively uncongested, although it’s increasingly a magnet for people who are not prepared (or able) to put up with overpopulated Mumbai’s soaring real estate costs

What’s in a Name?

Many called him a cult leader and he’s been branded everything from false prophet to criminal. Ever wondered how a 20th-century mystic came to be known as Osho? He explained that the name, which he adopted in the late 1980s just before his death, is derived from the William James word “oceanic,” which is meant to mean “dissolving into the ocean.” “Oceanic describes the experience,” he said, “but what about the experiencer? For that we use the word ‘Osho.’” Triumphantly for him, “Osho” also has historical roots in the Far East, where it also means “The Blessed One, on whom the sky showers flowers.” That hasn’t stopped many people from somewhat disparagingly referring to him as both a “sex guru” (he was vehemently against all forms of social and personal repression) and “the rich man’s guru” (he famously owned 99 Rolls Royces—all of which were gifted to him by wealthy devotees), worse still, many of his followers refer to him as a god-man, whereas Osho shunned all religion. He is, in every possible sense, a true enigma.

ESSENTIALS

GETTING THERE You can fly from Mumbai to Pune (both Kingfisher and Jet Airways have daily flights). However, while the flight from Mumbai lasts a mere 45 minutes, you’ll spend so much time getting to the airport and then waiting for your plane, that we strongly suggest you consider taking a train, which takes 3 to 5 hours. If you’re coming from Delhi, definitely fly; Kingfisher has daily flights departing at 3pm and 9:10pm, while in the morning there are two economy service flights on Kingfisher Red. Flights from Delhi take 2 hours. Rail connections between Mumbai and Pune are plentiful (and average 4 hr.), but you should endeavor to book your seat at least a few days in advance. For a good-value, fast journey, book an air-conditioned chair car seat on either the Pragati Express or the Deccan Queen; you’ll be in Pune within 31⁄2 hours. Another train you can try is the Sahyadri Express. It’s also worth noting that the Mumbai-Pune Highway is vaunted as the most modern and efficient in the country, so road trips are not only exceptionally smooth by India standards, but also the scenery as you pass through the Western Ghats (lush, rolling mountains that separate the western coastal belt from the Indian interior); hire a car for the journey, or—for a fraction of the price—get a seat on one of the many “luxury” buses that ply the route from morning to night.

VISITOR INFORMATION & TRAVEL AGENCIES The fascinating Osho website (www.osho.com) offers all you need to know about the Meditation Resort. If you’re curious about the Meditation Resort but unsure about whether or not to sign up, you can join one of two daily “silence tours,” which take you around the campus and provide useful information about what to expect; the brief tours kick off at