India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [153]
Created over 150 years by 800 artisans, Kailashnath Temple (Cave 16) is the zenith of rock-cut Deccan architecture, and Ellora’s star attraction—widely considered India’s finest work of art—also known simply as Kailasa. A dazzling visualization of Mount Kailash, the mythical sacred abode of Shiva in the Tibetan Himalayas, it is unlike the other caves at Ellora, which were excavated into the hillside—it is effectively a mountain that has been whittled down to a free-standing temple, measuring 1,700 sq. m (18,299 sq. ft.). The intricacy of detail is remarkable; the temple basement, for example, consists of a row of mythical elephants carrying lotuses in their trunks as they appear to support the entire structure on their backs. Sculpted detail abounds in the temple and its excavated courtyard, with hardly an inch of wall space left unadorned—demons, dwarfs, deities, humans, celestial asparas, and animals occur in abundance. In the Nandi Pavilion facing the entrance is a beautiful carving of Lakshmi surrounded by adoring figures; seated in a pond, she is being bathed by attendant elephants carrying pots in their trunks. Also be on the lookout for mithunas—male and female figures in erotic situations.
The five Jain caves form a distinct cluster some distance north of the Hindu caves. Of these, Cave 30 (Chhota Kailasa) is the largest and the first to be excavated—it’s a smaller, incomplete replica of the Hindu Kailasa cave, decorated with Jain saints and goddesses; within the sanctuary is an image of the founder of Jainism, Mahavira, who sits on a lion throne. Finest of the Jain caves is Indra Sabha (Cave 32). Here, an open court is adorned on each of its sides with carvings of elephants, lions and Tirthankaras (teachers worshipped by the Jains), and features a monolithic shrine in the center. Of special interest is the sculpture of the mother goddess, Ambika, recognizable from the child resting in her lap; beneath her is a lion, while a tree towers above. There are also ceiling paintings here depicting heavenly maidens and couples flying among the clouds.
The final cave, no. 34 is a small Jain sanctuary with a seated Mahavira at its center.
Ellora Caves free. Entry to Kailashnath Temple Rs 250, free for children under 15. No flash photography. Wed–Mon 9am–5:30pm.
Ellora Travel Advisory
These caves are only 30km (19 miles) from Aurangabad, but you should rent a car and driver for the day for transfers between certain caves. Starting at Cave 1, visit as many of the principal caves (don’t miss Cave 10) as you have time for, until you reach Cave 16, where you should arrange for your driver to pick you up and then drive you to Cave 21, which is worth investigating. Having seen this cave, again have your driver take you to Cave 29, located alongside a waterfall, reachable via a rather dangerous pathway. Another short drive will take you to the Jain Group of temples, of which Cave 32 is the best example.
Be warned that Ellora is enormously popular—especially during weekends and school vacations. Time your visit accordingly, or get here as soon as it opens, preferably not on a weekend. Ellora can be explored independently or with a guide—best to hire someone legit through your hotel, or through Anil Kumar at Classic Travel (see “Getting Around,” earlier).
WHERE TO STAY
The palatial Taj Residency (reviewed below) is in many respects light-years ahead of the competition—thanks to a new wing and a full-blown