India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [159]
By Bus If you want to travel to Goa but all trains and flights are full, or if you want to save on airfare, your next-best option is a bus from Mumbai, Pune, Hyderabad, Bangalore, or Mangalore. Numerous overnight buses leave from Mumbai (near Metro Cinema–Fashion St.) every day at 7pm; book an air-conditioned bus and bring a blanket (although some companies supply these). Preferably, this should be a sleeper (around Rs 1,000). If you’re traveling alone, note that you will sleep beside a stranger; if this makes you nervous, buy two tickets. Another option is to go for a semisleeper or “slumberette,” a comfy 135-degree reclining seat which is slightly cheaper. Paulo Travels (Goa: 0832/663-7777 or 0832/243-8531 through -8537; Mumbai: 022/2643-3023; www.paulotravels.com) is a reliable private operator with an efficient online booking system; bookings can also be made at the small ticket booths near St. Xavier’s College, Mumbai. If you are booking through other agents, make sure you ask for a Volvo bus (better suspension, more spacious seating) and that you get a confirmed ticket with your seat number. For the north Goa beaches, jump off at Mapusa; for the south, at Panjim, Margao, or Canacona (best to ask the conductor where the best stop for your destination is). Note: A single woman can request to have another woman seated beside her, though this may not always happen. Seats in the first few rows have more leg room.
VISITOR INFORMATION You don’t need to waste your time in Goa shuffling around looking for a tourist office; speak to the owner or concierge where you’re staying, and you’ll get everything you need to know. For general information on the state, visit www.goatourism.org. Goa’s tourism department releases a twice-monthly magazine called What’s On ( 0832/222-4132;www.goa-tourism.com), which gives a comprehensive listing of the events and parties scheduled in all corners of Goa. Many of the upmarket hotels also stock various advertising brochures, maps and booklets that may have some useful information or list upcoming events.
GETTING AROUND Note that it shouldn’t take much longer than 4 hours to cruise the entire coastline, so everything in this chapter is within easy reach. For quick reference, here are distances between major destinations from Panjim: Margaon 33km (21 miles); Mapusa 13km (8 miles); Old Goa 10km (6 1⁄4 miles); Calangute 16km (10 miles); Vagator 22km (14 miles); Ponda 30km (19 miles).
By Motorbike Motorbikes are très cool in Goa, and you’ll encounter an endless barrage of young backpackers and old hippies zipping around Goa’s roads on two-wheelers—sans helmets (potentially a little frightening). You can rent a bike for around Rs 200 to Rs 300 a day with a private license plate as opposed to Rs 250 to Rs 500 a day for a government-approved bike (these are identified by their yellow license plates); note that if you are stopped by the traffic cops, you will be fined for renting a private vehicle. Have your international two-wheeler driver’s license handy, and check the bike thoroughly before handing over any cash (if you don’t have a license, a gearless bike is easy to use even if you’ve never ridden them before). Note that if you hire a two-wheeler without insurance, you must pay for the repairs. You can find motorbikes practically everywhere, but we really recommend that you do this only through your hotel or guesthouse, or through the aforementioned Paulo Travels. If you don’t have a license, there are plenty of motorcycle pilots in Goa—which is a more cost-effective way of getting around than by taxi. When someone stops to ask if you need a lift (and they will), negotiate a price in advance. And if you don’t like the pace or style of driving, say something immediately. All approved pilots will have yellow license plates—which does not necessarily mean they will