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By Taxi & Auto-Rickshaw Negotiate privately with one of the many taxi drivers found around tourist areas—including those near your hotel entranceway (you can get one through your hotel, of course, but at a five-star lodging the cost will almost double—in fact, if you look like you’re staying at one of the upmarket places, chances are you’ll be quoted accordingly). Figure on spending Rs 1,000 to Rs 1,500 for about 80km (50 miles) or 8 hours of sightseeing, but specify which locations you hope to cover. Remember that if you need a one-way lift to a more remote region, you’ll be asked to pay for the return journey. In fact, many drivers now charge twice the distance no matter how near or far the drop-off. If you plan to take a day trip to a far-off beach, you’re better off fixing a price for the day (Rs 1,400 for a trip to Palolem from Anjuna—substantially more if you require an air-conditioned vehicle). An additional Rs 50 to Rs 100 is usually charged after 9pm. Auto-rickshaws are cheaper than taxis, but a great deal more uncomfortable. Dalesh is a reliable taxi driver ( 98-2210-2964) who can be booked for the whole day or for a pickup or drop-off. South of Panjim, you can contact Wilson Fernandes ( 98-2384-2587), who is based in Colva; he charges Rs 1,000 to Rs 1,200 for a trip from Palolem to the airport, and around Rs 3,000 for a return trip from the south to Fort Tiracol in the north. Note: All rates vary according to demand, season, and vehicle type. If you’re counting rupees, you might want to ask the rates from a couple of taxi drivers before settling on a ride.

By Car Goa is also perhaps the only place in India where you can hire self-drive cars, but given the driving culture (and complete lack of adequate road signage), we wouldn’t recommend doing so; like many of the motorbike rental services, most of the car rental outfits aren’t registered or licensed to commercially rent out vehicles. Consequently, you may not be properly insured—you hire at your own risk; if you have an accident, you pay for the repairs. For better, fully insured cars with or without a chauffeur, call Dominic of Vailankanni Auto Hires ( 0832/248-9568, 0832/329-0584, or 98-2210-1598; www.goacabs.com), based in Candolim.

By Bus Buses ply their way up and down the state, stopping in a rather chaotic fashion whenever someone needs to get on or off. If you’re in a hurry, try to catch an express bus; otherwise you could be in for an endless series of stop-starts—it is, however, the cheapest way of getting around (less than $1 from one end to the other) and a fun way of getting acquainted with local folk (and Goan music)! Most buses stop after 7:30pm.

By Boat Betty’s Place ( 0832/287-1038; www.bettygoa.com), a beach shack near The Leela Kempinski resort on Mobor Beach in south Goa, offers a variety of boat trips, including customized cruises—these need to be booked quite well in advance. At Kenilworth Beach Resort, also in south Goa, Sea Adventure (Utorda; 98-2216-1712) organizes bird-watching and a backwater cruise that takes in basking river crocodiles. There are countless early morning dolphin-spotting cruises up and down the coast, but unfortunately there are so many boats and water scooters gunning for the poor dolphins that the sustainability (and pleasure) of this activity has been diminished in recent years; until tourism authorities wake up and bring some order we would urge you not to add to the harassment.

TOUR OPERATORS & TRAVEL AGENTS

MGM International Travels has offices in Panjim (Navelcar Trade Centre, opposite Azad Maidan; 0832/222-0972 or 0832/242-1865; www.mgmtravels.com), Calangute (Simplex Chambers, Umtavaddo; 0832/227-6073) and Anjuna (Cabin Disco, Soranto Vaddo; 0832/227-4317). Other reliable travel agents include Trade Wings (1st floor, Naik Building, opposite Don Bosco School, Panjim; 0832/243-2430) and Footprints Tours & Travels, run by Angeline Lobo (Shelter Guest House, Vaddi Candolim; 98-5047-1639 or 0832/309-0594; www.goafootprints.com).