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the courtyard, though, as these pick up some noise from the public areas. Besides, the upstairs superior rooms are even more appealing (Macassar being our personal favorite); they’re massive, with high ceilings and loads of windows (but no A/C) that fill the interior with magnificent light and a welcome breeze. He’s also created a lovely garden and poolside environment, and the intimate restaurant serves great fresh fish. You can rent scooters and Bullet motorcycles, and staff arrange tours up and down the coast, and you can attend Sunday mass at Siolim village’s beautiful church, just down the road.

Waddi, Siolim, Bardez 403 517. 0832/227-2138 or 98-2258-4560. Fax 0832/227-2941. www.siolimhouse.com. 7 units. Oct–Dec 19 and Jan 11–Apr Rs 6,600 double, Rs 8,300 superior double; Dec 20–Jan 10 Rs 11,025 double, Rs 13,000 superior double; Rs May–Sept Rs 4,000 double, Rs 5,000 superior double. Rs 1,500 children over 12, Rs 750 children 5–12. Rates include breakfast; 10% tax extra MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; common room with lounge, TV, DVD, Wii gaming console, and library; airport transfers (Rs 1,000); large outdoor pool; table tennis; Wi-Fi (in restaurant; free). In room: A/C (in some) and fans.

Wildernest Miles away from the clichéd Goan image of sun and sand, this wilderness retreat is considered one of the world’s top eco-resorts. Sandwiched between two wildlife sanctuaries near the Maharashtrian border, some 800m (2,624 ft.) above sea level, this is the “love-child” of a group of villagers, eco-crusaders, and three forest departments that saved 180 hectares (450 acres) from becoming a timber and mining wasteland. Having resurrected the land, the team stuck fast to its natural-material-only rule. The result is delightful; ingenuity has left its stamp everywhere: on walls, lights, even signposts, culminating in the most awesomely located infinity pool, surrounded by forested hills, with waterfalls cascading in the distance and fed by natural spring water. Cottages are simple, but come with extraordinary views of either the forest or the valley. Cuisine features a delectable mix of recipes from Goa, Maharashtra, and Karnataka, and is served in earthen pots. Wildernest is a haven for trekkers and birders alike: You’re likely to spot paradise flycatchers, Malabar grey hornbills, and long-billed vultures. And, as you head off on early morning forest trails, you’ll spot telltale signs left by bears and leopards.

Swapnagandha, off Sankhali, Chorla Ghats 403 708. 93-4111-2721 or 0831/420-7954 or -1662. Fax 0831/243-1762. www.wildernest-goa.com. 16 units. Nov–Apr 14 Rs 6,000 forest view double, Rs 7,000 valley view double, Rs 10,000 family cottage (4 people); Apr 15–Oct Rs 3,200 Forest View double, Rs 4,200 Valley View double, Rs 6,000 Family Cottage. 1 child under 10 can stay free in forest and valley view cottages. Rates include all meals, evening tea, most activities, and taxes. Rates are much higher Dec 25–Jan 2. No credit cards. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; airport transfers (free for stays of 2 nights; otherwise Rs 1,800); bicycles; bird-watching; nature walks and treks; large outdoor pool. In room: Fans.

Yab Yum Resort With stone and thatch dome “pods” dreamt up by the owner after watching a futuristic TV series in the 1970s, this turns out to be one of the most authentic and lovely places to stay in Goa—The Independent called it the “quintessential tropical retreat.” Set behind the dunes on the edge of Aswem village amid coconut groves and banana trees, with the beach just a few paces away, the cluster of pods resembles a cute rustic village—steps lead up to the front door of your palm-frond-thatched igloo-shaped hut that rests on a solid plinth made from locally excavated lava rock. They’re a far cry from the dark, sweaty, often-gloomy backpacker digs that saturate Goa’s beachfront locations. Each one has a large stone bed, handmade mattress, cotton linens, cane and mango wood furniture, hanging space, cotton rugs and floor loungers, mosquito nets and incense, and reading lamps. The best, with sea views, are the pods