India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [173]
Ashvem Beach, Mandrem. 0832/651-0392.www.yabyumresorts.com. info@yabyumresorts.com 17 units (all shower only). Dec 15–Feb Rs 4,400 standard dome/cottage double, Rs 5,000–Rs 5,500 family dome/twin cottage/Honey Pod, Rs 11,000 double suite pod; Mar–Apr 14 and Oct–Dec 14 Rs 3,300 standard dome/cottage double, Rs 4,000–Rs 4,400 family dome/twin cottage/Honey Pod, Rs 8,800 double suite pod. Rates include breakfast and taxes. MC, V. Closed Apr 15–Oct. Amenities: Light meals and bar service; airport transfers (Rs 1,200); babysitting and children’s activity tent; Internet (in the office, for e-mails; free); outdoor dipping pool and children’s pool; tailor; yoga and massage center. In room: Fans, Wi-Fi (Rs 200/day), no phone.
Inexpensive
Occupying the same infinitely peaceful location (and with the same excellent staff and restaurant) as Elsewhere (one of our favorite collection of “villas;” ), are the rustic-luxury Otter Creek Tents ( 0832/224-7616; www.aseascape.com). Bargain hunters should really consider one of these three tents ($407–$663 double per week; $1,126 over Christmas and New Years), which overlook the freshwater creek; these are furnished with four-poster beds and have en-suite bathrooms with hot showers and personal lounges on a bamboo jetty. And there’s a great sense of exclusivity, to boot.
Another decent budget-oriented option (and one which you needn’t take for an entire week) would be to bag one of the two suites at Hotel Bougainvillea ( 0832/227-3270 or -3271; www.granpasinn.com) in Anjuna, some distance from the beach. Built by owner Betina Faria’s grandfather, it’s also fondly referred to as Granpa’s Inn and is a well-regarded hangout for backpackers looking for something a little more substantial and characterful than the shacks and impromptu guesthouses nearer the beach. Actually, the fact that Bougainvillea is a couple of miles away from the beach may be a bit of a letdown for some—for others, the distance from the flea market and endless vendors of Anjuna may be its saving grace. There’s a convoluted list of room categories, with standard (basic) doubles from Rs 850 to Rs 2,150; but those prized suites cost Rs 1,250 to Rs 2,450. Try to book the one with its own garden. The small accommodations are quiet and cool; there’s a lovely garden, swimming pool, and old pool table. Both short and long sessions of Brahmani yoga are held on the premises.
Presa di Goa Luxembourg native Edouard Spaeck and his adopted Goan son Judas (with wife, Cynthia) have turned this country house in Nagoa into a cool retreat, offering unbelievable value; each room has a small balcony with a table and cane chairs where your breakfast is served. Rooms, each named after a flower (we recommend Crossandra), are furnished with well-restored colonial antiques, including ultrafirm four-poster beds (although those in the deluxe rooms are a little small), sofas, desks, and wardrobes or chests of drawers, handsome Indian artifacts, and cool cotton gowns. Although the closest beach is overrun Calangute, what you wake up to here is a chorus of birds and the shrill hum of what appears to be a lively forest—although you’re actually in the quaint, off-the-beaten-track village of Nagoa. Should you happen to be there on a Friday, hop into the car and go shopping with the cook to the Mapusa weekly market. At press time, seven new suites were scheduled to open in the Portuguese colonial mansion on the adjacent property.
353/1 Arais Wado, Nagoa, Calangute, Bardez 403 517. 0832/240-9067 through -9069 Fax 0832/240-9070. www.presadigoa.com. reservation@presadigoa.com. 7 units (most with tubs). Jan 3–Apr 15 56€–57€ double, 67€–82€ junior suite, 97€–107€ special junior suite, 17€–20