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as an alternative to the nonvegetarian food that dominates Goan menus. Meat-lovers won’t miss anything once they sample Lisa’s tofu lasagna or one of the daily house specials. But most delicious are the huge salads Lisa promises are the “safest in Goa.” Expect soy in almost everything at this “Soya Station,” including tofu ice cream and tofu cheesecake. If all this sounds too over-the-top healthy and New Age for you, there’s always wood-fired pizza; or simply come to sip on one of the healthy cocktail-style drinks and catch a dance performance or live Spanish band on Sundays. Children are well taken care of in the kids’ corner, with its comfy floor mattresses and cushions, reading and coloring books, and—yes, ’fraid so—a TV playing Cartoon Network.

House no. 1639 Deul Vaddo, Anjuna-Vagator, near Vagator Petrol Pump. 0832/227-3479. Reservations suggested for dinner during peak season. Main courses Rs 80–Rs 250. MC, V. Daily 8am–4pm and 7–11pm; call about slightly different Sat hours.

Bomra’s BURMESE With Goa bursting at its seams with every conceivable kind of restaurant, a little Burmese hangout could get entirely lost or, as is the case with Bomra’s (named after the owner-chef), really stand out. With only the basic accoutrements needed to make a place pleasing to the eye—low cane chairs and paper lampshades—the main emphasis here is on the food, which is absolutely top-notch. Start with the homemade fried Shan tofu (made from gram flour) with tamarind soy sauce, or the excellent spicy rare beef salad with basil, mint, coriander, and sprouts. For a main course, try mussel curry with coconut milk and lemon grass or any of the specials—pork belly with cashew-nut crust, or steamed snapper lemon grass with chili fish sauce and jaggery (unrefined sugar) served atop a banana leaf on a wooden platter. Round off your meal with chocolate fondant and homemade vanilla ice cream.

Souza Vaddo, opposite Kamal Retreat, Fort Aguada Rd., Candolim. 98221-06236. Reservations highly recommended during high season. Main courses Rs 90–Rs 250. No credit cards. Daily 7:30–11:30pm.

Britto’s GOAN This is a bit of a local institution; an archetypal Goan beach shack at one end, and extremely popular restaurant at the other, where owner-chef Cajetan Britto has been dishing out his crowd-pulling specialties for years. Acquaint yourself with the local flavors by tucking in to the pork vindaloo or prawn curry, and come back later for chicken xacuti, fish caldeen, or the superb crab curry. There are less spicy options for tamer tastes, too, including a formidable seafood platter and even steak. There’s always action aplenty here—whether live music, super-smooth celebs hanging out on the beach, or simply a festive crowd ordering round after round of chilled beer. You’ll find this Goan favorite towards the northern end of Baga beach.

Baga Beach, Santo Vaddo, Calangute. 0832/227-7331 or -7629. Main courses Rs 80–Rs 270. MC. Daily 9am–11:30pm. Closed June 20–Aug 7.

Copper Bowl GOAN/SEAFOOD It’s not just the sensational seafood that makes dining here so pleasurable, it’s the wonderful setting—intimate and lush and seemingly hidden from the world in a peaceable garden kingdom. Served from copper pots, the Goan curry dishes are exquisite; try coconut-based chicken xacuti (pronounced cha-coo-ty) or fragrant prawn balchao, a mouthwatering combination of crispy prawns, aromatic spices, chili, onion, and prawn powder. If your taste leans more toward nonspicy, try the seafood in coconut-milk soup, followed by the “Seafood Treasure”—baby lobster, prawns, and two kinds of fish served in a banana leaf. There’s a formidable menu, but nothing will be served unless it’s fresh.

Pousada Tauma, Porba Vaddo, Calangute. 0832/227-9061. Reservations essential for nonresidents. Main courses Rs 300–Rs 700, lobster/tiger prawns Rs 1,000–Rs 1,400. MC, V. Daily 7:30am–10:15pm.

Fiesta ITALIAN A bit of an oasis off Baga-Calangute’s bar-lined main drag, this is one of Goa’s more romantic restaurants, set in a lovely beachfront garden and run by an energetic couple named Yellow