India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [177]
7/35 Saunta Vaddo, Tito’s Lane, Baga. 0832/227-9894 or 0832/228-1440. www.fiestagoa.com. Main courses Rs 150–Rs 450. MC, V. Daily 7pm–midnight. Closed May–Sept.
Florentines GOAN The great thing about this place, despite the plastic chairs and typically thrown-together ambience, is that you get to dine with locals, apparently untrammeled by tourism. For more than 25 years, Florence da Costa’s heaving chicken joint has been pulling in a crowd. Here, far from the well-trodden tourist beat (although, if you look foreign—or, better still, if you book a table—you seem to get preferential treatment), you’ll witness well-to-do Goan families fighting over who gets to pay the bill, while dozens more wait expectantly for a table. The chicken is legendary. It’s prepared in a variety of ways—the chicken cafreal is popular, but you can go for chicken xacuti or chicken vindaloo, too. Tables inside benefit from overhead fans, but the covered terrace outside is a better bet; expect zero frills, no music (just the progressively louder din from scores of happy diners), and food to be slumped onto the table. The chicken is served with soft Portuguese-style rolls and comes with a knife and fork, but you really should follow the example of fellow guests and use your fingers. Everyone here looks like they’re drinking soft drinks, but look carefully and you’ll see that those are mixers for generous measures of feni, the potent locally brewed liquor.
Chogm Rd., Saligao, Bardez. 0832/227-8122 or -8249. Main courses Rs 40–Rs 80. No credit cards. Tues–Sun 11:30am–3pm and 6:30–10:45pm.
Ku PAN-ASIAN Owned and run by Marie and Chris, a Spanish-French couple, this Zen-themed place focuses on sushi and Vietnamese dishes. There is no menu—rather listen to the brief list of daily offerings suggested by lovely Maria; she’ll be working with whatever she’s managed to source from the market today. If you’re lucky, you’ll get to sample her sugar-cane prawns, delicious spring rolls, and the Thai soups are lovely too. It’s a two-level restaurant made from wood and bamboo—there’s a water fountain stocked with fish and some plants, but the pleasure here is being surrounded by green open space (which you can appreciate since the place is open for lunch only). Note: Like many of the better eateries in Goa, Ku is very difficult to find and there aren’t any signs to speak of, so ask, and carry a mobile phone so you can call if you really get stuck.
Gaude Vaddo, Aswem, Morjim. 93-2612-3570. ku.morjim@rediffmail.com. Main courses Rs 220–Rs 380. Cash only. Daily 11:30am–3pm. Closed May–Sept.
La Plage FRENCH/FUSION This charming slice of Gaul is the wave-making venue established by the owners of erstwhile Le Restaurant Francais (always one of our Goan favorites). Now the fun-loving accidental restaurateurs Morgan, Florence, and Serge have transplanted the elegant yet laid-back atmosphere brought with them from the Continent to a lovely location on Asvem Beach. Occupying a cluster of shacks amid tall palm trees with thatched roofs and, for walls, sheer blue and yellow curtains billowing in the breeze, you sit on deck chairs at simple white tables and are serenaded by mellow tunes. The ambience might be relaxed, but the menu is a promise of a luxurious, memorable meal, and Chef Morgan certainly delivers. Tender fillets of tuna, served rare and encrusted with sesame seeds and drizzled with a sweet-tangy soy sauce; or calamari stuffed with ratatouille; and another stand-out favorite has got to be sardine filets with wasabi cream. The menu features innovative dishes concocted by Morgan, who likes to “escape” (read: “experiment”), so menus change regularly. More must-tries include tiger prawn carpaccio with fresh vanilla oil, and filet of sardines on phyllo pastry with mint coulis. Be sure to leave space for the addictive chocolate cake, whose recipe Morgan once used as baksheesh at airport