India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [178]
Asvem Beach, near Papa Jolly Hotel, Aswem, Morjim. 98-2212-1712. frenchfoodindia@hotmail.com. Main courses Rs 260–Rs 690. No credit cards. Daily 9:30am–9:30pm. Closed May to mid-Nov.
SHOPPING
Besides the vibrant markets (see “Shopping the Global Village Markets” box), north Goa has several stores worth checking out. Casa Goa is a stylish boutique featuring luxuriously comfortable fashion items by celebrated Goan designers Wendell Rodricks, Rajesh Pratap Singh, and Brigitte Singh as well as local artwork, silk drapes, restored furniture, a variety of antiques, and prints of Mario Miranda’s cartoons (Cobra Vaddo, Calangute-Baga Rd.; 0832/228-1048). Then take a look at Leela Art Palace nearby; with any luck, proprietor Ravi will be in. You might find yourself agreeing to accompany him on an exotic journey into some of the country’s remotest regions, where he regularly treks to source tribal art. Also in Calangute, Subodh Kerkar Art Gallery, run by Goa’s well-known watercolorist, showcases contemporary Indian art including ceramics, hand-painted chests, and Rajasthani sculptures (Gauro Vaddo; 0832/227-6017). Each Tuesday, an interesting classical dance and music performance is held at the gallery (6:45–8pm; Rs 300).
Located in a 200-year-old Portuguese mansion, Sangolda is the lifestyle boutique venture by Claudia and Hari Ajwani, the dynamic duo behind the beautiful Nilaya Hermitage and Fort Tiracol hotels; here you can shop for unusual home accessories and furniture sourced from all over India—from Keralan rattan loungers to Rajasthani chests. Attached is a gallery-cum-coffee-shop (E2–6 Chogm Rd., Sangolda; 0832/240-9310). Design junkies should also definitely make an effort to visit Monsoon Heritage , a contemporary studio created by internationally renowned designers Yahel Chirinian and Doris Zacheres (selected as one of the 23 most happening designers in the world by UrbanO magazine), who pair huge discarded tropical trees with mirrors and glass to create exclusive design pieces for the (very) rich and famous. You’ll find their showrooms in Paris and Santa Monica, but their main base (and inspiration) is right here (601 Fernand Wado, Porvorim, Bardez; 0832/651-5298; www.monsoonheritage.com). Another unique duo is Sonja Weder and Thomas Schnider, who use eco-friendly materials as much as possible and create some very striking articles ranging from furniture to lotus-leaf lazy Susans and a whole range of wall objects and gorgeous lamp shades—all of it available at Soto Décor (Sotohaus, 1266/f, Anna Vaddo, Candolim; 98-2298-3321;www.sotodecor.com). Nearby is a fun boutique called Happily Unmarried ( 93-2512-2150), where you can pick humorous knickknacks—strictly for singles. Janota is the label for the unconventional footwear of Edward Pinto (Janota, Adleia Aurino, Povorim; 0832/241-2129; www.janotagoa.com). He and his designer wife, Angela, have a seasonal store called “The Haystack” in Arpora (10am–8pm), while their studio is at Aldeia Aurino (near Damian de Goa, Porvorim, Bardez; 0832/241-2129; 9am–7pm). They also have a stall at Ingo’s Saturday Nite Bazaar. If you love shoes, make every effort to pick up a pair of Pinto’s.
Eco-crusaders should make every effort to visit Earthworm (264/79, First Floor, Green Valley, Alto Porvorim; 0832/241-0871; earthwormgoa@gmail.com), conceived by a pair of nature-loving Goan entrepreneurs looking to put the hype around sustainable lifestyles into action. Their green store sells environment-friendly products (read: low impact, organic, recycled) and local crafts, and disseminates ideas on sustainable living and conservation
Finally, for bibliophiles, Literati (E/1-282, Gaura Vaddo, Calangute; 0832/227-7740;www.literati-goa.com) is the best bookstore in the state, with tons of atmosphere, too. You can sit for hours in the terrific book cafe and read or browse or buy secondhand as well as newly published works, while at the same time enjoying a delicious brownie or a tall glass of chilled kokum (fruit drink). Ask owner Divya Kapur about any upcoming events like poetry or