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By Root 2261 0

old houses, some crumbling, others restored but all offering great insights into the original inhabitants and their status in society. To prove that Goa isn’t just about lounging on beaches and stomping on the dance floor, there are a couple of ways to get a close-up look at some colonial-era architecture. If you’re interested in decoding buildings, or in exploring some of Goa’s historic neighborhoods and villages, contact Heta Pandit of The Heritage Network ( 98-2212-8022;www.heritagenetworkindia.com) or pick up a copy of Walking in Goa (Eminence Designs Pvt. Ltd.) or Houses of Goa (Architecture Autonomous). The network also organizes events in historic homes, including festive dinners with traditional entertainment. In Loutolim (10km/6 1⁄4 miles north of Margao), you can tour the Araujo Alvares family home Casa Araujo Alvares (www.casaaraujoalvares.com; arrangements through Loutolim’s Ancestral Goa Museum; 0832/277-7034; Tues–Sun 9am–1pm and 2–6pm), while 13km (8 miles) west lies the old Portuguese village of Chandor and the impressive Casa de Braganza, Goa’s largest residence. The two-story facade of this Indo-Portuguese mansion—which practically takes up an entire street—features 28 balconies fronted by a lush, narrow garden. The land-owning Braganzas rose to prominence during the 17th century and today are divided into two clans, the Pereira-Braganzas and the Menezes-Braganzas, who occupy separate wings of the house. The large, high-ceilinged rooms (including a 250-year-old library) are filled with original antiques, rosewood four-poster beds, mosaic floors, and Belgian glass chandeliers. Sun-lit galleries and parlors are filled with bric-a-brac, and French windows open onto an interior garden. You can arrange to have a private tour conducted by Mrs. Braganza ( 0832/278-4201; Rs 100 per visitor); concentrate on the west wing, which is in the best condition.

WHERE TO STAY

The stretch of coastline from Panjim to Mobor has more five-star resorts (the big, sprawling kind with countless activities laid on) than north Goa, and the number is added to annually (raising the hackles of eco-watchdogs). Most of these resorts are characterless but very child-friendly, often with separate pools and activities, and babysitters are always available. If you’re looking for the best of these, the Leela is off the charts. However, our first choice for a wonderful and inspiring stay is Vivenda dos Palhaços —it’s not a beach resort at all, but a boutique guesthouse offering all the comforts of a real home, coupled with great style, a welcoming atmosphere, and a charmed location.

Bogmalo

Close to both Panjim and Margao (the main market town in the south), and 5 minutes from the airport, Bogmalo offers a swimmable beach and plenty of water sport options but without the intense overcrowding of Baga-Calangute. It is not, however, as secluded as the beaches you’ll find if you travel farther south; nor—thanks to visible concrete developments—is it quite so beautiful. The only decent accommodation here is Coconut Creek ( 0832/253-8090; coconutcreek@dataone.in; Rs 5,250–Rs 10,000 A/C double, depending on the season), which is generally full with long-term charter groups and offers the basic requisites—pool, cottages, greenery, and beach at walking distance. Owned by the same family is the simple and stylish Joets (Bogmalo Beach; 0832/253-8036), a fishing cottage turned guesthouse, right on the beach; upstairs bedrooms each have balconies and private sitting areas (Rs 2,900–Rs 6,000 double). More important, Joets has a “happening” restaurant with live music on Friday—make reservations and ask for a corner table by the sea.

Cansaulim, Utorda & Majorda

With locals for neighbors, rather than the resorts and concrete developments found in the more built-up areas along the coast, the best place to stay, anywhere in Goa south of Panjim, is Vivenda dos Palhaços (reviewed below). Nearby, boasting the biggest pool in the country, not to mention handsome rooms, manicured grounds, and snappy service, is the Park Hyatt Goa Resort and Spa ( 0832/272-1234;www.goa.park.hyatt.com)