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By Root 1974 0

—spread over 18 hectares (45 acres) on the virgin beach of Arrossim, it’s a massive piece of Cansaulim real estate, with 250 slick rooms and plenty of distractions (from parasailing and jet-skiing to yoga and Ayurvedic massage) if you’re not satisfied just lazing on the beach. Although it’s utterly modern, architects styled the resort like a sprawling Indo-Goan pousada; tropical plants and mother of pearl chandeliers help the concept along, accommodations are elegant, fresh and light-filled, and you can dine in a different venue just about every night of the week. The best rates are available online several months in advance; a standard double starts at Rs 9,900—but you’d do well to invest in a sea-view room (Rs 14,400–Rs 15,500 double). Not too far away, in Utorda, is the older, much smaller Kenilworth Beach Resort ( 0832/275-4180; www.kenilworthhotels.com), which has always struck us as a perfectly lovely place with friendly service and good facilities. It’s a better value than the Hyatt (even if rooms are slightly older fashioned), and although you won’t necessarily have the same extensive menu of services (or high-end dining options), you’ll be right on the beach, with some lovely beach shacks in easy striking distance.

Vivenda dos Palhaços Simon Haywood’s sumptuous, homey village hideaway epitomizes how a classy Goan boutique hotel should look and feel. Simon, who grew up in Calcutta, was schooled in England, and has lived in New Zealand and Mumbai, has done a fine job of restoring and then beautifully decorating this enchanting house tucked away amongst the trees and bushes. Detailed and personal, each room is blessed with antiques, and studious color schemes offset by carefully sourced bric-a-brac and objets—Madras has a partially open-to-the-elements bathroom; all-white Ooty boasts a magnificent shattered mirror mosaic shower; and the Master Suite is just plain enormous, with an equally vast bathroom (and tub). The Chummery, set in the garden, has two private porches and a vast library of its own—you could spend weeks just soaking up the tranquil vibe. Designed like the back of a truck, the fabulous open kitchen is where you can order drinks, ask for assistance with anything, or simply chat with the staff. Well-shaded grounds shelter a pretty pool, and there are myriad comfy sitting areas, an impressive library, and good art on the walls—even the guest toilet is done out with a sense of fun and nostalgia. This is a perfectly peaceable kingdom, albeit with many of the authentic sounds from your surrounds—pigs and chickens forage on neighboring plots, and young boys yell excitedly during afternoon football. Vivenda dos Palhaços—the “House of Clowns”—may be a mouthful, but get your tongue around it because we cannot recommend the place highly enough.

Costa Vaddo, Majorda, Salcette, 403713 Goa. 0832/322-1119.www.vivendagoa.com. 7 units (most with shower only), including 1 seasonal luxury tent. High season Rs 5,250–Rs 9,350 double; summer and monsoon Rs 3,500–Rs 5,750 double; festive season R 8,360–Rs 11,950; Rs 1,500 extra bed. Children under 14 pay Rs 100 per year of age. Rates include breakfast and taxes. MC, V. Amenities: Dining room, lounge, bar; airport transfers (Rs 400–Rs 850); art gallery, babysitting; beach drop-off/pickup (Rs 50); bicycles (Rs 200 per day); library. In room A/C and fans, hair dryer (on request), library (in one), no phone, Wi-Fi (Rs 80/1⁄2hr.)

Benaulim, Varca & Cavelossim

Midway down the south coast, once you get beyond the uglified beach at Colva (completely ruined by hapless development) are some of the prettiest, uncrowded, and pristine stretches in all of Goa. There are several very good, well-serviced resorts here, including the Taj Exotica (reviewed below), on Benaulim beach; but the Radisson White Sands ( 0832/272-7272; www.radisson.com/goain) at nearby Varca isn’t too shabby either, with all the requisite resort amenities, a vibey beach bar, and bland, predictable, sleek rooms. However, the top full-blown resort in Goa, The Leela, is a good deal farther down the coast, neatly cut