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By Root 1990 0

breeding beach of Galgibaga , another remote haven with eucalyptus trees and empty stretches of sand. The most famous beach—unfortunately now also increasingly overstocked with tourists and day-trippers—is Palolem . Until just a few years back, this was a thoroughly remote and tranquil hideaway; thankfully, though, despite the intrusion of shacks, trinket-peddlers, and human traffic, it remains one of India’s most beautiful stretches of coastline, a gorgeous sandy crescent cove lined with coconut palms and manned by fishermen with their outrigger boats that line the northern end of the beach. It remains relatively free of day-trippers, but if you find the crowds too much, simply walk until you find a quieter spot, even if you need to end up on neighboring Patnem . Accommodations in Palolem and Patnem, as well as still-lovely Agonda (just 7km/4 1⁄2 miles north of Palolem) were once limited to thatched tree houses or wooden houses on stilts, but now there are even semismart guesthouses available—some with hot water. At sunset, Palolem becomes a natural meditation spot; the sun disappearing slowly behind the beach’s northernmost promontory casts a shadow over local fishing boats, swimmers, joggers, cavorting dogs, and pockets of befuddled-looking cows, as the bars and restaurants come to life with pleasant lounge music. Palolem is also the birthplace of Goa’s enterprising new “silent party” scene.

WHERE TO STAY

In the southernmost reaches of the state, there is only one large resort, and quite frankly it’s a huge disappointment, particularly since it commandeers such a gorgeous stretch of beach—Raj Baga. You could subject yourself to the substandard service and atrocious architecture at The InterContinental Lalit Goa Resort, which is overrated, but that would be doing yourself an immense disservice, not to mention locating yourself just a little too far (around 3km/2 miles) from the action; frankly, this is probably the least appealing of the five-star resorts in Goa—if you must stay in a large resort, choose one of those along the central part of the coast (see above).

In Palolem you’ll have to venture back to nature at one of a handful of budget-chic options (such as the wonderful Bhakti Kutir eco-resort, reviewed below), or try The Village Guesthouse (reviewed below), which brings a touch of style to a traditionally rustic and earthy lodging scene. There are plenty more down-home options hereabouts, but if you fancy a bit of honest-to-goodness glamour thrown in with your beachfront idyll, look no further than the Turtle Lounge (see below) in Agonda. On the other side of Palolem, Patnem is a peaceful and lovely beach with very few hassles; the best place to stay is Home ( 0832/264-3916; www.homeispatnem.com; $30–$47 double), operated by a laid-back Swiss couple. Accommodations all have attached bathrooms and are scrupulously clean, if quite basic; the restaurant is also Patnem’s best.

Bhakti Kutir Described by some as “hippie-chic,” this is by far Palolem’s most atmospheric and eco-friendly option, though don’t expect any real luxury. It’s the brainchild of Panta Ferrao, a Goan lawyer who (aided by his German wife, Ute) dropped out to start an ecologically sensitive resort that would empower local people with skills and provide relatively comfortable accommodations. The mud-plastered bamboo “cottages” are made entirely from natural materials, with en-suite toilet facilities—squat toilets (organic, of course) and bucket showers. Try to book room no. 6, which is built on different levels; no. 8, a double-story unit with an upstairs balcony; or the “stone house” (built with Panta’s German in-laws in mind) with more traditionally Western facilities (like a toilet). Come prepared for mosquitoes, dark pathways, and plenty of back-to-nature experiences. Workshops and cooking classes are held for those wishing to extend their knowledge of local culture; so too an assortment of esoteric activities like Ayurvedic treatments, yoga, and meditation. They’ve added an alternative school to keep the kids happy and busy.

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