India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [192]
Turtle Lounge A wonderful discovery on still-unspoiled Agonda Beach, Turtle Lounge consists of just two to-die-for split-level wooden bungalows set on the edge of the beach next to a gorgeous little restaurant-bar of the same name. Owned and designed by Bernd Slotta, a German fashion photographer and stylist, they’re immaculate and spacious, really putting the rest of the beach hut scene to shame. Bernd has imbued both spaces with real style: beautiful fabrics, rich colors, and clever use of light to create a romantic atmosphere. There are no frills or hotel-like accoutrements; nor are there any in-room amenities (including hot water or mosquito nets), but the glossy design (with very sexy bathrooms), ultracomfy beds, and perfect setting more than make up for this. Leave the door of your upstairs bedroom open at night and fall asleep with the moon-kissed sea in full view, the dull slosh of waves an ever-present soundtrack. The equally stylish little restaurant has a limited but good menu, and the bar—with a chandelier dangling from the palm tree—is sociable without being overwhelming. Service is, if anything, overzealous.
Agonda Beach, Canacona 403 702. 94-2125-7165 or -7164. www.turtle-lounge.com. 2 units (shower only). Rs 5,000–Rs 8,000 double. No credit cards. Open mid-Nov (weather permitting) through mid-May. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; airport transfers (Rs 1,200); room service. In room: No phone.
The Village Guesthouse It’s not on the beach, but it’s the only place in Palolem with actual style, not to mention fabulous, modern bathrooms, and healthful breakfasts (real coffee, good tea, homemade muesli). The guesthouse occupies an unlikely looking property (and a very kitsch-looking double-story house) in Palolem village, leased from a local family and operated by a lovely Anglo-Irish couple who’ve spent years chilling out in Palolem, and finally decided to bring some dignity to the lodging scene. Inside, the atmosphere and decor is Zen-minimalist—there’s ample space, assorted Buddha statuary, framed black and white photographs, and fresh, modern, all-white rooms with frame-style poster beds brightened by a single colorful throw atop quality linens. There’s plenty of solar-heated hot water, and as we’ve hinted already, exceptional showers.
House no. 196, nr. Govt. Middle School, Palolem, Canacona 403 702. 0832/264-5767.www.villageguesthousegoa.com. 7 units. High season Rs 2,000 standard double, Rs 3,000 large double; summer Rs 1,500 standard double, Rs 2,000 large double; festive season Rs 2,500 standard double, Rs 3,500 large double. Rates include breakfast. MC, V (credit card payment incurs a fee). In room: A/C and fan, TV, Wi-Fi (free).
WHERE TO DINE
Although it’s only open in the season, Agonda’s Turtle Lounge (see above) is surprisingly stylish and hip. It’s also probably the best place to dine this far south. If you’re spending the day on Palolem’s increasingly crowded beach, it’s worth diverting your attention at lunchtime for some peace and quiet at Bhakti Kutir’s unpretentious little health food restaurant, Aahar, where you’re served inexpensive, delicious local and organic meals under a giant cloth draped from the surrounding trees—try the dal and red spinach, served with organic rice, coconut chutney, and fresh, nutty hummus; or sunflower seed and moong (mung) bean-sprout salad with steamed spinach, toasted nuts and seeds, and tofu, served with homemade whole-wheat rice-bread. The fish curry, served as part of a thali, and the only nonvegetarian meal here, is light and not too spicy,