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make this the preferred place to overnight. Its battlements no longer stand, but the combination of Portuguese, Dutch, Jewish, British, and local influences is evident in the tiled, steep-roofed bungalows that line its quaint streets, and it’s home to the oldest synagogue in the Commonwealth. From here Mattancherry, with its wonderful warehouses filled with antiques and trinkets, is a short rickshaw drive away. Plan to spend 2 nights in Kochi, enjoying its charming atmosphere and low-key sights at a lazy, relaxed pace. Take in a Kathakali performance, dig into the delectable seafood, enjoy a romantic sunset cruise around the harbor, and, if you’re at all interested in bargain-priced antiques, get ready to wade through stores packed with unexpected curiosities.

Kochi (Cochin), Willingdon Island & Ernakulam

ESSENTIALS

VISITOR INFORMATION Kerala (www.keralatourism.org) has the best tourism organization in India, starting with a helpful Airport Information Counter ( 0484/261-0115), usually open for all arrivals.

GETTING THERE & AWAY By Air Cochin International Airport ( 0484/261-0115) is one of India’s best. It’s located alongside National Highway 47, in Nedumbassery, which is 42km (26 miles) from the historic heart of Fort Kochi. There are flights to and from most major centers in India; international flights are mostly from the Middle East, including Dubai, Singapore, and Sri Lanka

A prepaid taxi service into the city is available at the airport; transfers to Fort Kochi should cost Rs 695. A better plan is to e-mail or call Kerala Adventures ( 94-4703-5627 or 0484/231-3744; touch@keralaadventure.com) with your flight details a few days in advance, and have a driver waiting for you on arrival; price for a non-A/C car is Rs 725; with A/C Rs 1,010.

By Train Kochi is well connected by rail to almost every part of India. Some of the journeys can be long and grueling, however, so check on times, or opt for train travel only within Kerala. Departing from Delhi, the biweekly (Tues and Sat) Trivandrum Rajdhani makes its way to Kozhikode, Kochi, and Trivandrum; this is one of the best connections in Kerala—some of the journey is very scenic but it’s a punishing 48 hours if you start from Delhi. For schedules, see www.indianrail.gov.in. Again, with prior notice, Kerala Adventures (see above) will pick you up from the station.

Kochi has two principal commuter railway stations: Ernakulam Town Station ( 0484/239-0920 or -5198) and Ernakulam Junction ( 0484/237-5429 or -5131). The computerized reservations office is at the Junction Railway Station (Mon–Sat 8am–2pm and 2:15–8pm; Sun 8am–2pm). For reservations, call 132; for status of current reservations, call 1316.

By Road Traveling around Kerala with a rented car and driver can be wonderful and exhilarating; there’s plenty of natural beauty worth taking in, and Kerala’s main roads are in relatively good shape; see “Guided Tours & Travel Agents,” below, for our top recommendation here. North of Kochi, coast-hugging National Highway 17 passes through Kozhikode and runs all the way to Mangalore and Mysore in Karnataka, and on to Mumbai. Traveling south between Kochi and the capital Trivandrum (6 hr.), National Highway 47 has been resurfaced in recent years, and the highway really spreads out for the popular segment between Kochi and the backwater towns of Alleppey and Kottayam. For journeys between Kochi and Madurai, you can expect long but beautiful stretches along National Highway 49, which traverses hairpin mountain passes, or you can detour via Periyar for equally scenic views. Private and state buses connect Kochi with many cities and towns throughout South India; these provide something bordering on a theme-park experience, however, and have a reputation for thrill-ride speeds. For long-distance private bus schedules (much more comfortable and punctual) to (and from) Ernakulam, contact Kerala SRTC Office ( 0484/237-2033); alternatively the Karnataka SRTC ( 0484/236-0229) and Tamil Nadu ( 0484/237-2616).

GETTING AROUND By Taxi & Auto-Rickshaw Speak to your hotel management