India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [197]
Note that the bridges connecting the mainland and Fort Kochi with the islands usually charge a toll, which you will be expected to pay.
By Ferry The ferry is a cheap way to get to and from any of Kochi’s main areas; the journey between Fort Kochi/Mattancherry and the mainland takes around 30 minutes and departs every half-hour; Willingdon lies around 15 minutes away. Ernakulam’s most important jetty is the Main Boat Jetty (off Fore Press Club Rd.) for services to Willingdon Island, Fort Kochi, and Cherrai Beach; at Fort Kochi the main jetty is next to Brunton Boat Yard. High Court Jetty off Shanmugham Road, from where you can get to Bolgatty Island, is less regular since the construction of the bridge between Bolgatty and the mainland. Ferry services begin at 6am and continue until 9:30pm; fares are nominal.
GUIDED TOURS & TRAVEL AGENTS Kerala Adventures (Vysagam Apartments, Kasthurba Nagar, Kadavanthara, Cochin; 0484/231-3744 or 0484/324-2021; www.keralaadventure.com; comvoyge@vsnl.net) is an excellent local agency with a fleet of reliable vehicles and drivers; it’s headed by the inimitable Babu John (comvoyge@vsnl.net; 24-hr. emergency number 94-4703-5627), who is extremely knowledgeable about the best places to stay in Kerala (and Tamil Nadu), and will go to extraordinary lengths to show you the best the state has to offer. Babu John (along with his brother John Thomas, in Trivandrum; ) specializes in customizing itineraries according to budget, time, and preferences; he’s well-versed in the needs of foreign clients, with all services provided at excellent rates. For example, a 7-day package covering Kerala (including all fuel, taxes, parking, toll fees, and your own chauffer) will cost you around Rs 9,450 to Rs 10,850 for a non–A/C car, and around Rs 11,550 to Rs 14,000 for an A/C vehicle—hard to beat. If you’re the kind who doesn’t plan ahead, you can even arrange for Babu to pick you up at the airport, and ask to be shown a few hotels in your preferred price range before deciding where to stay. Don’t feel, either, that you need to head into Cochin in order to avail yourself of his services—he’ll gladly dispatch a vehicle and driver to any part of South India, so your Kerala adventure can begin even before you arrive.
Not a travel agency as such, but worth investigating if you haven’t planned anything in advance but would like to arrange a day trip, rent a bike, or book a backwater cruise, is Traveller’s Paradise (K.L. Bernard Master Road in Fort Cochin ( 0484/221-8633; www.bloominthenaturalway.com), a charitable initiative where all profits go towards supporting the development of local villages, helping to provide education, health benefits, and general social upliftment.
WHEN TO GO In terms of climate, the best time to visit Kerala is between October and March. December and January are peak-season months, and many resorts charge accordingly, some even tripling their rates; if you plan to visit during this time, book well in advance. Note, however, that August is when boat races are held, and September can be really pleasant—not too muggy, with the lakes filled with monsoon water and prices low. Rates are also favorable in April, which is temple festival time (though the heat is a little more intense, you’re catching the tail end of the season, when most resorts start routine maintenance). In fact, from February to May, caparisoned