India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [203]
1/268, 269 Parade Rd., Fort Cochin 682 001. 0484/221-6666. Fax 0484/221-7777. www.malabarhouse.com. reservations@malabarhouse.com. 17 units. Oct–Dec 19 and Jan 11–Apr 220€ deluxe double, 300€–360€ suite; Dec 20–Jan 10 285€ deluxe double, 380€–460€ suite; May–Sept 150€ deluxe double, 200€–250€ suite; 35€ extra bed. Rates include breakfast; 15% tax extra. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant, wine and tapas lounge; airport transfers (Rs 1,100); babysitting (with prior notice); bicycles; outdoor pool; room service; Ayurvedic spa; tailor. In room: A/C and fans, TV, DVD (in Malabar Suite) hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).
Expensive
Le Colonial This wins the prize for Kerala’s most elegantly interiored hotel, and it’s surely among the most beautiful in the country. Although the grounds are small (but with room for a decent pool and sun loungers), there’s so much to look at on the inside, that you just might forget to explore Kochi. This is apparently the oldest colonial-era building in Kochi, and supposedly where St. Francis himself once stayed, and where Vasco da Gama died. A transformed—and perfectly renovated—16th-century tea bungalow, the architects and designers have injected this posh-yet-homey boutique hotel with painstaking attention to detail, imbuing it with great personality and filling it with exquisite antiques, impeccably restored furniture, and eye-catching artworks. All the rooms are sumptuous and very comfortable, but the price you pay determines the amount of personal space and type of bathroom you end up with. This is among the most glamorous pieces of heritage design you’ll see anywhere in India—if you don’t have the money to stay here (yes, it’s pricey), it’s certainly worth splurging on a meal here.
1/315 Church St., Vasco da Gama Sq., Fort Cochin 682 001. 0484/221-7181 through -7184. Reservations: Neemrana Hotels, A-20/B, Feroze Gandhi Marg, New Delhi 110 024. 011/4666-1666. Fax 011/4666-1600. www.neemrana.com. sales@neemranahotels.com. 8 units. Midseason Rs 11,500–Rs 17,500 double, Rs 6,500 small double; low season Rs 7,000–Rs 10,000 double, Rs 4,500 small double; peak season Rs 17,000–Rs 24,000 double, Rs 11,000 small double. Rates include breakfast plus one other meal, soft drinks, tea, coffee, and laundry; 15% tax extra. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant (Mountbatten; see “Where to Dine,” below); airport transfers (Rs 900–Rs 1,800); medium-size outdoor pool; room service. In room A/C, TV, Wi-Fi (free).
Old Harbour Hotel This 1808 bungalow was until recently the residence of an old tea-broking family, and renovation has been very sensitive; even the entry-level superior rooms retain a sense of history and space. Owner Edgar Pinto is an avid collector of excellent modern Indian art; a Swiss architect breathed life back into the dilapidated structure and then styled it with a sexy integration of locally sourced antiques and contemporary color—a big triumph is the sense of space and tranquillity thanks to a generous garden and pretty pool. Garden-view rooms are a little more generous size-wise (choose “Tower”), but the garden “cottages” are the best value, with lovely outdoor bathrooms. Usually suites are not worth the money (unless you’re traveling with kids), but the huge Princess and Palace suites, both with a harbor view, are bargains and simply palatial. It’s not positioned right on the waterfront like Brunton (but pretty darn close), but it’s got atmosphere and class and offers excellent value; and the rooms are more spacious than those at Malabar House. Book immediately.
1/328 Tower Rd., Fort Cochin 682 001. 0484/221-8006.www.oldharbourhotel.com. 13 units, most with shower only. High season Rs 7,500 superior double, Rs 9,300 garden view double, Rs 10,600 garden cottage double; Rs