India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [204]
Tea Bungalow Still in its infancy (opened in early 2009), this guesthouse-sized hotel occupies a restored bungalow built in 1912; it’s yet another decent newcomer to Kochi’s heritage scene, yet (unwittingly) looking very contemporary. While it’s antique on the outside, once you step inside there’s not much in terms of historic ambience. Instead, it offers bright, attractive rooms and a fresh, welcoming atmosphere, and while the rates skyrocketed at press time you’ll definitely be able to bargain them down. The spacious interiors have marble floors and boldly colored walls and the smart, upbeat rooms (there’s hardly an antique in sight) are named and themed after different Indian Ocean ports (personal favorites are Goa, Zanzibar and Mauritius)—the best are in the main house and have large doors connecting the bathrooms with private gardens, so you can enjoy a virtual open air shower. While the dining area is a trifle bland, lively barbeques are held around the pool. A decent alternative if the more authentic places are full.
1/1901 Kunnumpuram, Fort Kochi 682 001. 0484/301-9200. www.teabungalow.in. info@teabungalow.in. 10 units. Oct–Mar $300–$340 double; Apr–Sept $215 double. Rates include breakfast; 15% tax extra. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant, poolside barbecue lounge, library-lounge with TV, bar; airport transfers (Rs 900–Rs 1,200); outdoor pool; room service. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).
Trinity The stone entranceway is engraved with the date 1740 and the initials of the Dutch East India Company (VOC), which had its offices here. It’s another labor of love by the Malabar House team, and for some time now, this has been a really chic little hidden away guesthouse appealing to those after utter privacy. Although the name will likely change once five new rooms are added (a brand-new block is being built), currently the three lovely suites share a lounge and guests avail of facilities at The Malabar House, just a short stroll away. The emphasis here is on good looks and the rooms are decorated with lovely artworks and dramatic photographs—in the Red Suite are lithographs by MF Husain, an important (and highly controversial) Indian artist; the collection also runs to tribal art and other historic artifacts. Of the pretty outdoor bathrooms, most coveted is the Red Suite with its fine chill out area. Trinity (or whatever it will be called) will soon have a spa and restaurant.
1/658 Ridsdale Rd., Parade Ground, Fort Cochin 682 001. Reservations: 0484/221-6666. Fax 0484/221-7777. www.malabarhouse.com. 3 units, all with shower only. Oct–Apr 220€ Blue deluxe double, 300€ Yellow suite, 360€ Red suite; May–Sept 150€ Blue deluxe double, 200€ Yellow suite, 250€ Red suite; 35€ extra bed. Rates include breakfast; 15% tax extra. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Breakfast room and lounge; guests may use pool, restaurant, and bar at The Malabar House (reviewed above). In room A/C and fan, TV/DVD.
Moderate
Secret Garden This 2-year-old guesthouse tucked away down the backstreets not far from the Dutch Cemetery is one of the most alluring options in Kochi. Your host, Thora, is an Icelandic architect who, together with a team of Kerala craftsmen, breathed new life into this sturdy old building, transforming it into a really cozy sanctuary that feels a million miles from the tourist hordes. There are currently just four rooms (two of them triples), and even once Thora has completed work on three more, this’ll still be a haven of tranquillity. The elegant rooms feature a mix of colonial and Kerala-style furniture, and are fine-tuned for a hassle free stay. Get up early for yoga under the mango tree before sitting down to a