India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [205]
11/745 Bishop’s Garden Lane, Fort Kochi 682 001. 0484/221-6685, 99-4747-4050, or 98-9558-1489. www.secretgarden.in. 4 units (3 more planned). Oct–Mar Rs 5,500 double; Apr–Sept Rs 4,125 double. Rates include breakfast and taxes. MC, V. Amenities: Breakfast room, library-lounge with TV, CD library and computer; airport transfers (Rs 800–Rs 1,400); bicycles; small outdoor pool; morning yoga. In room A/C, hair dryer on request, no phone, Wi-Fi (free).
Tower House Yet another new hotel (since 2009), this is a successful conversion by India’s prolific heritage-oriented Neemrana group—authentic digs and a boutique hotel experience at bargain rates. The sumptuous old two-level building (part of the old lighthouse tower) is a warren of scrupulously restored spaces, so it’s an adventure just getting to your room as you move through grand reception rooms and prissy-looking parlors, all the time enticing you to peek into the different rooms along the way. With a huge collection of carefully sourced antiques and rooms in a variety of shapes, sizes, and configurations, the ideal stay would commence with a tour of each one. Even the smallest doubles are spacious and elegantly furnished. While the rooms are excellent value, beware that some of the enormous suites (with a third bed included in the price) are beautiful but without windows. Service is well meaning (although not on par with Neemrana’s slicker Le Coloniale), and given how mediocre the competition is, you’d be crazy to stay anywhere else in this price category.
I/320 and 321 Tower St., Fort Cochin 682 001. 0484/221-6960 through -6962. Fax: 0484/221-6963. Reservations: Neemrana Hotels, A-20/B, Feroze Gandhi Marg, New Delhi 110 024. 011/4666-1666. Fax 011/4666-1600. www.neemranahotels.com. sales@neemranahotels.com. 14 units, most with shower only, some with tub and shower. Oct–Apr Rs 3,750–Rs 5,000 double, Rs 4,500–Rs 6,000 grand double, Rs 6,000–Rs 8,000 luxury suite; May–Sept Rs 2,500 double, Rs 3,000 grand double, Rs 4,000 luxury suite. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant, 2 lounges, bar; airport transfers (Rs 900); Internet (broadband in the office; free for e-mail checking); outdoor pool (by 2010). In room A/C and fans.
Inexpensive
If you’re on a tight budget, make an advance booking (do make sure that it’s one of three that has a balcony) at the seven-room Raintree Lodge (1/618 Petercelli St.; www.nivalink.com/raintreelodge; raintree@fortcochin.com; Rs 2,000–Rs 2,300 double plus 15% tax). It’s located in the heart of the old town; guest rooms are no-frills, but clean and decorated with antiques and objets, and the beds are comfortable; tubs look worse for wear but overhead showers mean you don’t have to lie in them. Because it’s so small (although some rooms are disproportionately large) with no public amenities (bar a rooftop with a relatively nice view), it feels rather like renting a tiny flat, although you can rent bikes, arrange transfers and get guides through the friendly check-in clerk.
If you’re looking for a genuine homestay experience, there’s no beating Delight (reviewed below)—particularly if staying with warm and hospitable people is of any significance (what other reason would you have for choosing a homestay?). Alternatively, if you value comfort over personality, have a look at slightly more expensive Bernard Bungalow (1/297 Parade Rd.; 0984/742-7999, 0484/221-6162 or -6160; www.bernardbungalow.com; Rs 1,500–Rs 3,500 double, depending on room and season), run with an iron hand by Coral Bernard. She’s a bit of a battleaxe but her rooms are so clean you could practically eat off the floor. Pick a room upstairs and you’ll feel very much a part of the home she’s lived in for the past 30 years, without actually encroaching on her space (don’t bother