India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [215]
2 Lakshadweep
Between 200km (124 miles) and 450km (279 miles) W of Kerala’s coast
Ask any globe-trotting island-hopper if the world still holds any undiscovered gems, and Lakshadweep will be among the first names to crop up. One of India’s best-kept secrets, the 36 atolls and coral reefs making up the remote Union Territory of Lakshadweep are an extension of the better-known Maldives island group. Only three Lakshadweep islands—Agatti, Kadmat, and Bangaram—are open to foreign tourists, and the Indian government employs a strictly enforced entry-permit system. All the islands are “owned” by the indigenous people, and land is unavailable for purchase by nonnatives—even a man marrying a local woman may not buy land here.
Ten islands in the archipelago are populated, almost exclusively by Malayalam-speaking Sunni Muslims who make their living from fishing and harvesting coconuts. Only Minicoy Island, which is closest to the nearby Maldives, shares aspects of its neighbor’s culture, including a Maldivian dialect known as Mahl.
Being Muslim, the islands are officially dry, and alcohol is only available on Bangaram, which is technically uninhabited by locals; avoid carrying any liquor with you. You are strongly advised to bring insect repellent since the mosquitoes become alarmingly active once the sun descends.
ESSENTIALS
PERMITS Foreigners can only visit the islands with prebooked accommodations and an entry permit. Visitors intending to stay at the Bangaram Island Resort (the best of the two options available to foreign travelers) can have all permit arrangements made through the CGH Earth central reservations (Casino Building, Willingdon Island, Cochin 682 003; 0484/301-1711; fax 0484/266-8001; www.cghearth.com). Foreigners must supply their name and address, as well as nationality, place and date of birth, passport number, place and date of issue, and expiration date, and also give their Indian visa number and expiration date. Permits usually take 2 full working days to be processed; they cost Rs 200 for adults over 18, and Rs 100 for children. The CGH Group will also book your flight to and from Kochi (or Bangalore) for you.
To make your own permit arrangements (a laborious process; best avoided), contact the Society for Nature, Tourism and Sports (SPORTS) run by Lakshadweep Tourism ( 0484/266-8387) in Kochi. Or contact their Delhi office ( 011/2338-6807).
VISITOR INFORMATION See “Permits,” above. For details about Lakshadweep, contact the Assistant Manager, SPORTS, Lakshadweep Administrative Office, Willingdon Island, Kochi ( 0484/266-8387; 10am–1pm and 2–5pm; closed Sun and second Sat of the month).
GETTING THERE Unless you fancy a time-munching trip from Kochi by ship (14–20 hr.), you’ll have to get to Bangaram by air: Kingfisher (www.flykingfisher.com) flies daily from Cochin (and Bengaluru) to the tiny airfield on Agatti (Agathi) Island; the private airline usually offers a better deal than state-owned Indian Airlines, but do check for deals. You can also leave all the travel arrangements in the hands of CGH Earth when you book your accommodation; at press time they were getting return tickets for Rs 12,000. At Agatti you’ll be met by a resort representative who’ll usher you to a waiting boat anchored near the shore not far from the airport for a memorable 90-minute journey to nearby Bangaram Island (Rs 1,400). Alternatively, you could shell out for a transfer via helicopter (Rs 6,000), which is the only way of transferring if you visit during the monsoon season (mid-May through mid-Sept).
DIVING THE REEFS
Experienced divers rank the reefs of Lakshadweep among the best diving destinations in Asia, particularly the coral islands of Bangaram, Tinakara, Pirelli 1, and Pirelli 2. Bangaram Island Resort hosts Lacadives, a small dive center that was the first CMAS (an international