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underwater-sports federation) dive organization in India, with its headquarters on the island of Kadmat. Bangaram is known in particular for unique dives to spots such as Manta Point, where manta rays are a seasonal attraction; the Grand Canyon around the isle itself offers magical underwater viewing, as does Perumal Par, a submerged bank with world class diving (Rs 3,000 per dive, excluding equipment hire). Lacadives offers diving courses, rents out equipment, and conducts up to three dives a day, as well as night diving. If you’re not a qualified diver, you can rent a mask and go on one of the resort’s snorkeling trips to a nearby wreck where an assortment of marine fauna will have you begging for more; alternatively, bring a doctor’s certificate indicating that you’re fit to dive and you can have your first scuba experience here (Rs 24,000 for a 4-day course, including four open-water dives; Rs 7,500 for the 1-day resort course). For details, contact the Lacadives Diving Centre (at Bangaram: 93-8861-9494; in Mumbai: E-20, Everest Bldg., Tardeo Rd.; 022/6662-7381 or -7382; www.lacadives.com; lacadives@gmail.com). Note that there is no diving during the monsoons (mid-May through Sept).

WHERE TO STAY

Bangaram Island Resort Eco-consciously designed to all but disappear into the surroundings, the modest resort remains quite basic, with emphasis on the captivating setting rather than fussy luxuries—the result is pure heaven. Up against the biggest hoteliers of the day, CGH (now CGH Earth) won the rights to host visitors here based on their commitment to ecological principles long before they were fashionable. Today, this peaceful 50-hectare (123-acre) island is still nothing but untouched beaches and towering coconut palms—no newspapers, television, minibars, or even air-conditioning get in the way of experiencing the island’s beauty. Guest cottages—thatch-covered huts, really—are arranged in a row a short distance back from the beach, and are spartan and clean: simple cane furniture, mesh screen windows, and private porches. The atmosphere here is so removed from workaday worries (and you don’t need to worry about snakes, scorpions, or monkeys either—although there are plenty of insects) that you’ll find no excuses not to recline in your hammock and stare into the magnificent cobalt waters, or discover a new addiction to diving, which is a major draw. On foot (take shoes for coral-covered stretches), you can skirt the entire island in about an hour; en route you will discover a host of stunning milky-white beaches to call your own. There’s an Ayurvedic massage center for those days when sunbathing gets too stressful, and early risers can salute the rising sun with yoga on the helipad at 6:30am. It’s the stuff of an old-fashioned dream vacation.

Bangaram Island, Lakshadweep. Reservations: CGH Earth, Casino Bldg., Willingdon Island, Cochin 682 003. 0484/301-1711. Fax 0484/266-8001. www.cghearth.com. crs@cghearth.com. 24 cottages, all with shower only. Nov–Apr 300€–360€ standard hut double, 550€–600€ 2-bedroom deluxe hut (sleeps 4), 125€ extra person; May–Oct Rs 8,500 2-bedroom deluxe hut (sleeps 4), Rs 2,860 extra person. Rates include all meals and taxes. Discounts for stays of 7 nights or more in high season. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant, bar; airport transfers by boat (Rs 1,400 return, Sept 15–May 15 only) or by helicopter (Rs 3,200; May 16–Sept 14); Ayurvedic center; beach volley ball; boating, kayaking and sailing; dive center; fishing; snorkeling; telephone; yoga and meditation. In room: No phone.

3 The Backwaters

Alappuzha is 85km (53 miles) S of Kochi; Kumarakom is 95km (59 miles) S of Kochi

Kerala’s backwaters comprise a web of waterways that forms a natural inland transport network stretching from Kochi, the northern gateway, to Kollam (or Quilon, as it’s been renamed), the backwaters’ southernmost town. At its heart is Vembanad Lake, on the eastern shores of which lie the top-notch resorts of Kumarakom and its Bird Sanctuary, and on its south bank, the little town of Alappuzha, the unofficial capital