India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [217]
Kumarakom has the most luxury accommodations, all strung along the shores of Vembanad Lake, but unless you’re a dedicated birder, there’s not a great deal to do here. Indulge in Ayurvedic therapies, and laze under the tropical sun—that’s about as busy as your day is likely to get; then board a houseboat cruise, where the passing scenery and languid pace (and, should you be paying for luxury, discreet service) is enough to lull you into a comfortable coma. Between November and March, the local Bird Sanctuary becomes home to numerous migratory flocks, many of which fly in from Siberia. Regularly seen here are little cormorants, darters (or snake birds), night herons, golden-backed woodpeckers, tree pies, and crow pheasants. Given its exclusivity and sublime setting, Kumarakom does not offer accommodations for budget-oriented travelers; for that you’ll need to look farther south to Alappuzha (pronounced Ala-pur[d]-ha, or Alleppey if you can’t be bothered), also the focal point of backwater cruise operators, and the only backwater town worth spending a few hours indulging in a bit of retail therapy.
The entire backwaters region is a tranquil paradise and sustains a delightfully laid-back way of life that has endured for centuries—perfect for sultry, idle, do-nothing houseboat adventures that take you into the heart of Kerala country life. Despite the massive increase in traffic from the tourist boom, floating along these waters will be the highlight of your sojourn in south India (see “Hiring the Best Houseboat,” below).
Snake Boat Races
Every year Kerala’s backwater canals host the world’s largest team sport, when scores of streamlined 30m (100-ft.) chundanvalloms—commonly known as snake boats because their prow looks like the raised hood of a snake—are propelled across the waters at impressive speeds, cheered on by an exuberant audience. Typically, snake boats are manned by four helmsmen, 25 singers, and up to 100 oarsmen rowing in unison to the terrific rhythm of the vanchipattu, or “song of the boatman.” The oldest and most popular event is the Champakulam Moolam Boat Race, held in monsoon-soaked July, but the most famous water battle is undoubtedly the Nehru Trophy Boat Race, held on the second Saturday of August on the Punnamada backwaters of Alleppey in conjunction with Kerala’s important Onam harvest festival. Tickets for the event, which features at least 16 competing chundanvalloms and attracts thousands of excited supporters, are available from the District Tourism Promotion Council office (see “Visitor Information,” below), but best to ask your hotel or houseboat operator to arrange these. If you’re not visiting during the rainy season, you’ll be glad to hear that a rerun of the event—organized with the tourist season in mind, so be warned—happens in February.
ESSENTIALS
VISITOR INFORMATION The official authority responsible for dishing out information to visitors is the District Tourism Promotion Council, which has various offices in the different backwaters towns. The main office is in Alappuzha, near the Boat Jetty ( 0477/225-3308; www.dtpcalappuzha.com; daily 9am–5:30pm). If your main interest is getting information on houseboats, see “Hiring the Best Houseboat,” below.
GETTING THERE By Road Taxis are easily available in all major towns and cities. From Kochi a taxi should cost at most Rs 1,200 and get you to Kottayam in about 11⁄2 hours; farther south, Alappuzha is better connected (better road) and should take around 1 hour. It is a 5-hour journey from Idukki/Periyar,