India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [218]
By Air For the northern backwater towns, the nearest airport is at Kochi; around 76km (47 miles) by road by car to Kottayam/Kumarakom, or 85km (53 miles) to Alappuzha.
By Train Though there are railheads in Kottayam (15 min. from the Kumarakom resorts), Alappuzha, and Kollam, your best bet is to get to Trivandrum or Kochi and then head out by road; all resorts offer transfers.
GETTING AROUND By Water-Taxi & Ferry Kottayam, Alappuzha, and Kollam are all connected by ferries that ply the route, with six departures to Kottayam daily. State Water Transport Department ferries between Alappuzha and Kottayam (a 3-hr. round-trip) depart from the tourist boat jetty near the bus station. Ferries between Alappuzha and Kollam take 8 hours, departing from both the Alleppey and Kollam boat jetties at 10:30am and arriving in Kollam/Alappuzha around 6:30pm (cost is Rs 300); after this you can catch a road taxi back. Be warned, though, that although you’ll spot Chinese fishing nets and typical Kerala houses along the way (not to mention all kinds of non-routine activity, you need real stamina and patience to “enjoy” the entire day-long trip. If you’re in a hurry you can ask about speedboats (Rs 700 per hour; maximum four passengers), which more than halve the journey time (but are more injurious to the environment).
GUIDED TOURS, CRUISES & PACKAGED TRIPS Alappuzha’s well-meaning District Tourism Promotion Council (near Boat Jetty, Alappuzha; 0477/225-3308) organizes tickets for the daily backwater ferry between Kollam, Kottayam, and Alappuzha (see above). DTPC also offers private cruises costing upwards of Rs 200 per hour on a motorboat, and around Rs 150 per hour on a “country boat”; an overnight trip (22 hr.) on a kettuvallam houseboat will run you Rs 3,500. See “Hiring the Best Houseboat,” below, for recommended guided overnight trips. Alternatively, any of the accommodations listed below can organize backwaters cruises—for many it’s part of the package, though this is definitely not the same as having a houseboat to call your own. Finally, if you don’t feel like planning any of this, but don’t mind entrusting yourself to a classy, top-notch organization, take one of the all-inclusive deals offered by Malabar Escapes (the owners of The Malabar House in Kochi; www.malabarescapes.com); not only do they have one of the best backwater properties in Kerala, Privacy, and a super houseboat (see “Hiring the Best Houseboat,” below), but they can line all these options up to give you a truly upmarket sojourn, taking in the best southern Kerala has to offer.
Cruising Kerala on the World’s Smallest Luxury Liner
Leave it to Oberoi to take the traditional backwater cruise to new heights with the MV Vrinda—not exactly a liner, but the ultimate in luxury on Kerala’s backwaters, and very Agatha Christie. After all, only on board the MV Vrinda can you find yourself watching life along the river from a comfy rattan chair on the breezy upper-deck lounge, or from your plush settee in the air-conditioned dining room while staff keeps a watchful eye out for a raised finger. On the first night, after a scenic 4-hour cruise on Vembanad Lake, you dock at a jetty for dinner (a thoroughly elegant affair accompanied by Kathakali dancers), then bed down in one of only eight smart cabins, each decked out with luxuries like TV and DVD, en-suite showers, and lovely king-size beds. The following day, the boat makes its way to Lake Pamba, where you can climb aboard a small rice boat to explore the narrower backwaters; the following day another rice boat excursion takes you to see an 18th-century church and century-old Hindu temple at Nedumudy, with a qualified guide. Three nights later you wend your way back by road to Kochi. Typical of the Oberoi, food is outstanding (there’s an a la carte menu but you can pretty much get what you want) and you are treated like royalty—perfect if you prefer to travel in a somewhat sanitized manner, ensconced in a luxurious cocoon. The 3-night package runs from October to April