India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [220]
Note: Two more stops worth considering (reached this time by vehicle) are the Elephant Orphanage, where you can get up close and personal with the elephants (usually including at least one baby) that are cared for here, as well as Mannar and Aranmula, towns famous for their metal icons and mirrors respectively.
Scrambling for Their Tipple
For generations, agile young village men have been clambering up coconut palms to tap into the sweet sap known as toddy, or kallu, which is collected from the flower pod. Like their fathers and their fathers’ fathers, these “toddy tappers” have made a good living over the years harvesting the sap to drink right away (sweet and refreshing, but definitely an acquired taste) or to ferment into an alcoholic drink. The morning’s toddy is already a heady tipple by evening—by the next day, it’s prodigiously potent.
WHERE TO STAY
Ideally you will combine a night or two at one of the resorts or guesthouses recommended below with at least two more on a houseboat. Most of the top luxury resorts are strung along the eastern shores of Lake Vembanad; the exceptions are the top-rated Privacy, Olavipe, and Green Lagoon (all reviewed below), all of which lie on backwaters on the northern end of the lake. You can reach most of them by car, but many prefer to pick you up from a prearranged jetty, which heightens the sense of escape. Some, like Coconut Lagoon, Philipkutty’s Farm, and Green Lagoon, can in fact only be reached by water. In short, this is one area you should plan and book in advance regardless of season, so that the necessary transfer arrangements can be made. Alleppey is the only town worth exploring at any length, and perhaps a better contrast to a lakeside resort; there is also a good guesthouse here—Raheem Residency (reviewed later). Note: Taxes usually run 15%; do check whether it’s included when asking for rate quotes. From May to September, rates are generally half those of the peak season, which is December and January (also when the influx of tourists really undermines the experience of being here in the first place); September is a particularly good month to visit for houseboat excursions. Unless you’re staying at one of the smaller places, don’t even think about coming here between Christmas and early January—prices skyrocket and the atmosphere will be anything but relaxing.
Hiring the Best Houseboat
Take this cruise at the right time, and it will possibly be the highlight of your holiday in Kerala, so book during shoulder season, and make sure you hire a good boat. Kettuvallam houseboats are available at various levels of luxury, and may be rented for day trips or for sleep-in journeys of several days; we recommend that you spend 2 nights on board, since it takes one to realize how relaxing the process is, and the major attractions are watching the setting sun turn the lake orange before settling down in the middle of the lake for the night (all boats must be moored or anchored by 6pm for the fishermen to cast their night nets), and witnessing the activities of households on the smaller backwaters at dawn and dusk (only possible on the second day). Most houseboats feature solar-panel power and heating, biotoilets, and an average cruising speed of 8 to 10kmph (5–6 mph). Although the facilities might strike some as rather basic, you’ll be spoiled rotten by your private team—minimum of two, a cook and pilot—who work hard to make your experience unique and exceptional (and discreetly manage to leave you to experience the backwaters in peace). Meals are authentic Kerala fare—if you’re curious about Kerala cuisine, you’re welcome to observe proceedings in the tiny kitchen at the rear end of the boat. With the huge increase of traffic on the backwaters, don’t expect exclusivity—try to avoid booking over the peak season. September is to our mind the best month, when the water is high, harvest