India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [221]
One of the simplest and most sensitive conversions of the kettuvallam has been done by Spice Coast Cruises (House Boats, Puthenangadi, Alleppey; 0484/266-8221 or 0478/258-2615; spicecoastcruise@cghearth.com), who have cleverly increased the number of “awnings” (for views as well as breeze) and created a comfortable sun deck “bed” with white bolster cushions on the elevated section of the boat up front—perfect for lounging around with a book (though the “captain” steers from the front, you soon forget his presence); just behind is your coir-carpeted dining room, furnished with unpretentious antiques. The tiny bedroom comes with A/C (running at night only), and in our experience staff struck just the right balance between attentiveness and discretion. Rates are 290€ to 380€ double during high season (Rs 7,730 in the off-season), all meals included; while a two-bedroom (sleeping four) costs 475€ to 535€, or Rs 10,825 per night in low season.
Three more reputable companies, each with huge and reliable fleets, are Lakes & Lagoons ( 098-4705-1566; lakes_lagoon@satyam.net.in), Rainbow Cruises ( 0477/224-1375;www.backwaterkerala.com; reservations@rainbowcruises.in), and Soma Houseboats. The latter specialize in boats with a separate elevated viewing platform; for this luxury make sure you book one of its “Upper Deck” houseboats ( 0471/226-8101; www.somahouseboats.com); prices vary according to season, number of bedrooms, and the length of your cruise, but you should be able to get a basic, air-conditioned one-bedroom houseboat for as little as Rs 9,250 during the season (much less if you chose a quieter period). Both Rainbow and Soma have earned Gold Star classification from the state government and are considered the top of their class.
If you prefer to go with sentiment, you can also investigate TourIndia ( 98-9560-5243; www.tourindiakerala.com), the company that pioneered the houseboat concept and were then imitated by countless others. They’ve stuck to their guns, though, and now operate 12 boats.
But if you don’t mind forgoing the traditional kettavallam design, the best houseboat experience is aboard Discovery ( 0484/221-6666;www.malabarescapes.com). Launched in late-2006 by Malabar Escapes (Kerala’s much-lauded boutique hotel chain, responsible for The Malabar House in Fort Cochin), this is a gorgeous modern interpretation of the houseboat concept, with a large upper deck where you dine and sunbathe (furnished with dining table and loungers), a comfortable and stylish bedroom (though no reading lamps), large shower room and dressing area, and a separate, spacious lounge—all A/C. The team works hard to create routes where you won’t come across other houseboats, but the likelihood is slim these days, and you will probably dock your final night at Privacy (see below), one of our favorite backwaters villas, from where you start and end your journey. The only drawback, besides the hefty price tag (350€–450€ per night, including all meals), is the early morning “check-out”—you’re required to be off the boat by 10am—no doubt another great reason to top and tail your houseboat tour at Privacy. You can also opt for a 3-night package on board the boat, with 21⁄2 full days spent getting a better understanding of backwaters life; you’ll visit a market, dine in an authentic village home (one of the best meals you’ll have), and watch kathakali in it’s spiritual context in a temple. Discovery has an edge of modernity and style that makes it our personal pick as far as houseboats go.
Another top option if money is no object is the small fleet of well-equipped houseboats belonging to Kumarakom Lake Resort —they’re among the most luxurious on the lake, and highly recommended. They are also slightly cheaper than Discovery; Rs 15,000 to Rs 22,500 one-bedroom, Rs 25,000 to Rs 35,000 two-bedroom, Rs 2,000 extra person. In addition to all meals and taxes, these rates include access to the facilities at the Resort, too.
But for 100% luxury and genuflecting service from India