India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [237]
Immediately south of Kovalam is Vizhinjam Beach, the site of the erstwhile capital of southern Kerala’s first dynastic rulers and, between the 8th and 13th centuries, a major natural port for local kingdoms. Now a poor fishing hamlet of thatched huts overlooked by a pink mosque, Vizhinjam is an interesting contrast to the tourist hubbub of Kovalam; swimming here, however, is dangerous, no doubt the reason for its relatively untouched atmosphere. A number of shrines are found in Vizhinjam, including a rock-cut cave enclosing a shrine with a sculpture of Dakshinamurthy; the outer wall of the cave includes a half-complete relief depicting Lord Shiva and his consort, Parvati.
Farther south, the Ayurvedic resorts that can still lay claim to the beach idyll that put Kovalam on the map dot the coast (see “Where to Stay & Dine,” below). Visitors staying at any of these should seriously consider a day trip that takes in Padmanabhapuram Palace (see review below), on the way to Kanyakumari, India’s southernmost tip, where you can enjoy one of the most interesting cultural experiences on the subcontinent (see “India’s Ultimate Sunrise gathering,” below).
Note: For details on finding visitor information points and contacting suitable travel agencies, see “Essentials” under the Trivandrum and Varkala section, earlier. In Kovalam, visit the Tourist Facilitation Centre ( 0471/248-0085; Mon–Sat 10am–1pm and 1:30–5pm) near the entrance to the Leela resort (it’s just beyond the security check post). Besides giving information, the center assists with tour bookings, car hires, boat rides, and lodging—enthusiasm is not their strongpoint, however. Note: Consider any recommendations for government-owned accommodations very carefully—they tend to be poorly managed and often run-down.
India’s Ultimate Sunrise Gathering
Just 87km (54 miles) southeast of Trivandrum, across the border with Tamil Nadu, Kanyakumari (also known as Cape Comorin) is not only India’s southernmost tip but the much-venerated confluence of the Arabian Sea, the Bay of Bengal, and the Indian Ocean. Watching the sun rise from the subcontinent’s southernmost point is an age-old ritual that attracts thousands of Indian pilgrims each morning. They plunge themselves into the turbulent swell, believing that the tri-oceanic waters are holy. Others revel in the glorious spectacle as though it were a major Bollywood premiere. Nature’s daily show here becomes something akin to a miniature festival, with excited pilgrims besieged by chai-, coffee-, and souvenir-wallas selling everything from kitschy crafts (how else to describe conch shells with plastic flower bouquets glued to the top?) to ancient postcards and outdated booklets. But it’s all part of the experience, which is quite wonderful; you can’t help but be moved by the mass of people who gaze on a natural daily occurrence with such childlike wonder, effectively bestowing upon the event the spiritual significance that draws the crowds in the first place.
To get here, you need to arrange for an early morning wake-up call and have your hotel schedule a taxi. You should reach Kanyakumari at least half an hour before sunrise in order to take in the mounting excitement as the crowds prepare to greet the new day. Once the sun is up, you’ll have a good view of two rock islands not too far offshore. One of these is the site of the Swami Vivekananda Rock Memorial (Rs 15 daily darshan or viewing of a deity; 8am–4pm), reached by the half-hourly ferry. The memorial commemorates